1 • Because the wood was pretty raw, I started by rough sanding the gunwales. Then, I pretreated all wooden surfaces with a generous coat of penetrating oil. By doing this before installation, hidden surfaces will be protected from exposure to water and the elements.
2 • While the pretreated trim was drying, I marked the location of the seat, yoke, thwarts and any other trim pieces on the hull of the canoe using the grease pencil. Builders put these pieces where they are with design and performance in mind, so it’s a good idea to reinstall them in the same location. I’m putting new trim on a solo canoe, so while the same principles apply, my trim pieces are a little unique.
3 • Next, I removed the thwarts, yoke and seat from the canoe. I labeled the parts with their location and the direc- tion they face for reinstallation. If you lose track of bow and stern with the trim removed, remember, the serial number is always located in the stern. The hull is now very flexible. You can use two-by- fours to brace it if left for an extended period of time.
4 • Before removing the old trim, I marked the location of the center point on both the interior and exterior of both sides of the hull. Next, I marked the location of the rivet holes on the interior of the hull. I marked the final few holes at each end on the exterior.
5 • Starting from one end, I removed the old rails and decks from the canoe. Using a bit the size of the head of the rivet, I drilled until the heads popped off. Do not drill all the way through the hull. I then cleaned the newly exposed areas with a mild household cleaner.
6 • Next, I measured and marked the center point of the new gunwales. Lining up the center marks, working from the center towards one end, I spring clamped a new inwale and outwale on one side of the hull. The rabbeted pieces are my outwales. I placed a C or bar clamp every 20 to 30 inches as required. Sliding a piece of cardboard between the clamp and rail helped prevent damage to the wood. I tamped down the tops of the outwales to ensure the rabbet sat firmly against the top edge of the hull. To hold the gunwales firmly in place, I found it necessary to place clamps closer together near the bow and stern where the profile of the canoe is upswept.
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