Beauty - Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sense& sensitivity
As the colder weather really starts to bite, you may hear more of your regular clients complaining that they have sensitive skin, but just what exactly does this mean, and more importantly is it possible to treat it?
“Sensitive or sensitised skin may result from a number of factors including allergies, food intolerances, exposure to chemicals in the environment, stress hormones, genetics or specific illness,” explains skin care expert Anne McDevitt. “Symptoms can vary from person to person but may include dryness or tightness, redness and irritation, red bumps or spots to flakiness.”
Mariga Sheedy of Skin Essentials Ltd, adds: “Most clients claim that they have sensitive skin. It is the job of the skin care professional to determine whether the skin is intrinsically sensitive / reactive or whether it has been artificially sensitised. This occurs when the skin has been over-stimulated and damaged by outside factors such as incorrect skin care, ill health and medicines, weather and other lifestyle choices.”
“Once this has been determined by a comprehensive skin analysis and consultation you can begin to treat the problem at its source using the correct ingredients and professional protocols.”
Spotting the triggers
The tricky thing about skin sensitivity is that it is often caused by different things in different people. Typically characterised by ruddy complexions and reactivity to topical products, there could in fact be a number of reasons for your clients’ skin sensitivity – from allergies to particular ingredients or fragrances through to extreme temperature changes thanks to the cold weather and central heating.
Candice Gardner, Education Curriculum Manager for the International Dermal Institute explains: “The number one trigger for sensitivity is in fact climate. When temperatures drop so do natural skin lipids. Cold air typically contains
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less moisture and as such can cause skin to lose moisture and become dry, itchy and sensitised. Add a harsh wind and this can be exacerbated with chapping and wind burn, which deplete barrier lipids compromising [the] skin’s natural protection.
“Don’t be fooled into thinking that [a] warm centrally heated home is the solution. Central heating and open fires will also dry out the ambient environment, promoting that dehydrated skin. Switching from hot to cold environments as we move in and out of doors will certainly increase skin sensitivity and promote the ruddy glow as delicate skin capillaries try to regulate the skin temperature by constricting and dilating. If you do not get your [client’s] skin in check and reinforce [their] natural barrier lipid layer these sensitivity issues could persist and result in longer term challenges.
“Understanding the importance of this protective barrier lipid layer in the skin will assist in making the correct choices as far as professional treatment and homecare regimens go. Skins with an impaired barrier function are less tolerant of product and are vulnerable to chemicals and pollution in the environment. This makes these skins more reactive, even to products they may have been using for a while with no issue,” adds Candice.
Sensitive solutions
Fortunately, for those with artificially sensitised skin, it is possible to help repair the damaged lipid layer with the use of a simple daily routine to soothe, calm and replenish the lost lipids.
Mariga agrees and advises that, “artificially sensitised skin can be corrected and strengthened by the use of products with skin identical ingredients such as essential fatty acids, ceramides, anti-oxidants and hyaluronic acid. These will strengthen the skin cell membrane and restore resilience to the skin. As soon as the skin has been restored with correct homecare, hydrating and plumping facials can be performed along with light peels.”
“For the client with intrinsic hypersensitivity the focus must be on reducing the burden of unnecessary ingredients on the skin’s processes. These include fragrance, sulphates and many common essential oils. Take a minimal approach and use as few products as possible to achieve the client’s goals without over-stimulating. Always introduce only one new product at a time.”
Turn the page to discover a round-up of products which are ideal for treating sensitive skin…
Virginie Claire offers an at a glance guide to sensitive skin. What is sensitivity? • Complexion flushes easily
• Reactive / irritated topically by applications / environment / temperature / bodily processes
• High colouring with broken capillaries • Delicate skin typically How does it occur? • Hereditary
• Neglect / abuse (poor skin care, harsh products / treatments, lifestyle, diet, alcohol, smoking)
• Celtic skins are often preconditioned (fine / more delicate tissues)
• Internal / External factors (medications, diet, supplements, inflammation, sun, wind, heat, cold, etc)
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