The timer and ESC fit nicely between the original engine bearers (above). Copious outlet area for the cooling air is provided by the holes cut in the bottom of the cowl and battery hatch (upper right). Trimming the cowl allowed lots of cooling air to enter from around the spinner (lower right).
and how to set them. Programing the ESC took about 5 minutes.
With the ESC programed, all that was necessary was to program the timer. Will Hubin is the designer and manufacturer of some great timers designed specifically for control line flying including the FM-2 pro- vided. His very popular FM-9 timer uses an external programing box that makes fine tuning of your setup in the field really easy. The FM-2 timer, on the other hand, was designed not to need the external program- ing box. Instead, the FM-2 uses adjustable potentiometers to set the flight time, startup delay and one of three preprogramed rpm settings in the ESC, set through the Castle Link. While not offering the versatility of the FM-9, it is a great timer for those wanting to try out electric control line without incurring the expense of the programing box. With everything in place, the electronics programed, and the battery(s) charged, it was up to FLYING MODELS to pick up Frank Fanelli. I always like Frank to take the
maiden flight photos of my FMprojects as it gives me an excuse to see the FLYING MOD- ELS crew, talk shop, and go for lunch at the Tuscany Bistro!
One of the advantages of electric is the ability to easily program the flight duration. This is great for initial trimming flights. With the first flight programmed for 1 minute, 30 seconds (the lowest setting on the FM-2 timer), the start button was pushed and after the programed delay, the motor ramped up to full rpm. The takeoff was uneventful, but, as with most new planes some trimming was required. I had too much tip weight and the right wing was low. Lap time was also a little slow. Several test flights and adjustments later things were improving and I tried some maneu- vers. Not bad! I’m going to like this plane. I have to say the electric power system worked flawlessly.
If I had to do it again, I would take the time to completely remove the original engine bearers and make a new firewall mount for
the motor. While a lot more work, this would save several ounces, always a good thing. As a postscript, after making some trim adjustments, I had another opportunity to visit FLYING MODELS and fly the Oriental. I removed about ¼ ounce of tip weight, tweaked the flaps, and installed an APC 11–5.5E pusher prop. Flying on 60-foot lines (eyelet to eyelet), and with the lap time set at 5.1 seconds, the wings leveled out and the Oriental flew wonderfully. There was plen- ty of line tension both level and overhead. Level flight had a nice groove and the rounds were smooth and consistent. Cor- ners, while not the sharpest I’ve experi- enced, were well defined without a hint of a stall. With air temperatures in the low 80s, after flight, all the electrical components were cool to the touch. The recommended Brodak power system wasn’t even breaking a sweat hauling the Oriental around. All in all, I am very pleased with the results of the conversion, and kudos to Brodak for offering such a well thought out electric setup.
PHOTOS: FRANK FANELLI
Jim checks the controls before the Oriental’smaiden flight (at left). The electrified Orientalready to tear up the pattern (above). The great classic design melds well with the modern electric power system.
FLYING MODELS 49
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