The e-conversion power package as supplied by Brodak (above left). A very complete package that included all the components for a reliable, easy to operate system. The modified original engine bearers (above right) ready for
the aluminum angle motor mounts. The aluminum angle motor mounts bolted in place (below left) provide a solid base for securing the motor. Template (below right) was used to accurately locate the motor X-bracket mounting holes.
As with any electrical installation, pro- viding adequate airflow over the compo- nents is essential. That being the case, I cut holes in the firewall both above and below the engine bearers.
Without making major modifications to the fuselage, the battery could only go in one place; the tank compartment behind the firewall. As there was a hatch already pro- vided, this was easy. I did make several modifications to the hatch. As designed, the tank hatch was secured by two screws, one on each side of the fuselage.
Since I would be changing batteries fre- quently, I made an external latch from a small servo arm to make removing and se- curing the hatch more convenient. I also shortened the hatch mounting tabs and hol- lowed the inside a bit to provide clearance for the battery. Finally, I cut some cooling slots to provide airflow through the com- partment. I secured the battery inside the compartment with hook and loop fastener. With the battery in place, there was no room for the ESC or the timer in the tank compartment. The only logical location for those components was directly behind the firewall above the battery and existing mo- tor bearers. This required fabricating a new top hatch. After cutting the top sheeting to
FLYING MODELS
create the hatch opening, I outlined the opening with a simple frame made from 1⁄32- inch ply and filled the frame opening with blue foam. I then shaped the foam to match the fuselage and covered the top of the as- sembly with two layers of 1.4-ounce fiber- glass cloth. After final sanding and priming, I dug out the foam and magically a new hatch appeared. I secured the hatch with magnets and cut holes for air circulation with my Dremel. Rattle can paint provided the finish coat.
Luckily, the Castle ESC fit neatly be- tween the existing motor bearers. I cut out the balsa filler between the bearers and glued a piece of 1⁄64-inch ply to the bottom of the bearers to form a pocket for the ESC. Hook and loop fastener secured the ESC in place. The timer was mounted directly on top of the balsa filler between the bearers with small servo screws. With all the wires tucked in place the arrangement came out neat and clean. After all the components were in position, it was time to check the c.g. Ouch! It need- ed about 4 ounces in the tail to balance. Now I really don’t like adding lead to any air- frame, so a second look was surely in order. My only easy option was to move the motor back as far as possible. So, off with the cowl,
cut back the engine bearers and remount the aluminum angles all the way back to the firewall. Bolt the motor back in place and recheck the c.g. Only 2 ounces required now. The final total weight was around 50 ounces ready to fly. Higher than I wanted, but I’ve seen other Orientals around that weight fly well. So, in keeping with my orig- inal goals of the keeping the conversion sim- ple, I felt I could live with that. Moving the motor required trimming the cowl back to provide clearance for the spin- ner backplate. While not something I origi- nally wanted to do, it actually provided an added benefit of increasing the available cooling air to the motor, ESC and battery. Lucky again!
One of the great features of the Castle Creations ESC is its ability to be easily pro- gramed through your computer using the Castle Link USB Programmer. And better yet, the programing software includes a con- trol line mode specifically designed for our applications. If you are new to electric con- trol line all the programing variables might seem a bit daunting. However, there is a great online reference on the Stunt Hangar forum in the “Getting all AMP’ed up!” sec- tion called “Norm Whittle’s Excellent Cook- book”. This primer explains all the variables
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