Beauty - Chemical Peels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
creaction hemical
“Peels are chemical potions that are painted on the skin in order to be exfoliated,” explains Dr Patrick Bowler in his book The Nervous Girl’s Guide to Nip and Tuck. He continues: “The earliest peel, used to treat Acne scarring in the 1930s, was very strong and irritating, but today peels are available in much milder strengths. The strength depends on how acidic the chemical is and how long it is left on, a bit like hair highlights.”
Sueprficial peels remove dead skin cells and leave the skin intact. A superficial treatment carried out several times over a period of time will not only help to exfoliate the skin by ‘eating’ away at dead skin cells, but by gradually removing damaged and thick skin will also help with the penetration of active ingredients into deeper parts of the epidermis, so any further facial treatments that follow have a better chance of achieving results too.
“I like to think of chemical peels as a ‘reboot’ for [the] skin allowing healthy skin appearance,” says Noiren. “A series of chemical peels can help treat a myriad of skin issues. There really is no reason not to try one.”
Anne McDevitt of Anne McDevitt Products continues: “Therapists often ask about Physician-based peels that have a higher percentage – but when chemically analysed, a higher number does not always indicate a stronger peel, again training and a history of results are important, particularly when dealing with Irish skin types.”
Peeling good
A superficial peel can be carried out on most skin types to treat many skin concerns, but what makes them so popular is the results that they achieve, usually instantly. Offering facial peels allows you to treat many of your clients’
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concerns, such as dry, mature or dehydrated skins, as well as oily skins and those clients suffering from Acne or Acne scarring.
“Profound Skin Care therapists emphasise a specific consultation protocol that leads to identifying the skin condition that will benefit most from chemical peels,” says Anne. “That could be any one of over 30 different skin conditions including Acne, scarring, ageing, pigmentation or simply a build up of dryness.
“Potentially the age profile of the client can run anywhere from teens to 80s, with the most common group beginning in the late 20s and progressing all through the 30s. Main concerns span from signs of ageing like open pores, uneven texture, dullness or dryness to Acne, Rosacea and scarring. Teens of course are only treated with peels in the short term, mostly for Acne, congestion or scarring.”
Noiren continues: “[Chemical peels] are suitable to most skin types as they can be varied in strength and duration of time left on the skin so they can be tailor made for each individual client.”
As for the ‘chemical’ side of the treatment, many treatments use Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) such as Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Fruit Acids, and these are considered to be the mildest peel formulas. The word ‘chemical’ is still widely used to describe what is now more of a gentle peel.
“Chemical peels can start from a Glycolic-AHA Peel to a Polyhydroxy peel which involves several different acids working in conjunction to give the maximum benefits of both AHAs (Alpha Hydroxyl Acids-water soluble) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids-fat soluble),” says Noiren. “This type of peel is cutting-edge and allows the client to experience the benefits of all acids in a single treatment rather than having to choose from a selection of single or double chemical peels offered.
“Regarding the maximum strength of a peel in a salon, therapists should be aware of the pH as this dictates just what acids actually work as a
low peel with a low pH is much more effective than a high peel with a high pH. Also, a peel with many acids is more effective than a peel based on one acid with both AHAs and BHAs,” says Noiren.
“Recently the pH has become a hot topic of interest and how it is placed on the pH scale can directly effect the free acid’s working ability on the skin. In many cases clients have judged the potency of a chemical peel by the percentage of the acids, for example a 70% peel is better than a 30% as it is stronger. This can be completely untrue if the pH is incorrectly placed.
“The FDA in America, which is a leader in rules and standards in the safe usage of products, state that AHA and BHA containing products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the acids, its pH and other ingredients in the product. Stated simply the pH determines the effect the acid has on the skin by creating an acid-alkaline environment,” says Noiren.
“The contraindications would be that pregnant and nursing women don’t receive peels since there are no studies, as of yet, about the effects of peels on foetuses or nursing babies. [Clients] cannot get a peel if they have been off Accutane for less than six months. If [clients] are prone to cold sores a peel can actually bring on an outbreak so they need to take anti-viral medication before, the day of, and the day after treatment. Also, if [clients] have a tendency to scar, are taking antibiotics, have cancer or an autoimmune disease, or have an open sore, they cannot get a chemical peel.”
If you would like to offer such a treatment to your clients, it’s vital that all therapists are fully trained. “It’s important to have experience before embarking on higher strength peels, so Profound currently offer level 1 and level 2,” says Anne.
Turn the page for the latest in Chemical Peel treatments…
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