“After an early night, I AWOKE TO A
SCENE OF BREATHTAKING BEAUTY. It was the World Heritage Site of HA LONG BAY”
than fast food in this part of the world. We discovered Vietnamese cuisine is an ideal combination of delicacy and panache, combining flavours and textures without being irredeemably twee, and I found the Rice Paper Rolls, Cabbage Leaf Soup with Shrimp Parcels, Chicken with Lime Leaves, Mango Salad and Crispy Hoi An Pancakes utterly delicious. Fine cuisine was also on the menu
aboard Orion II. Each night a dégustation menu by celebrity chef Serge Dansereau, owner of the award-winning Bathers’ Pavilion in Sydney, is served by delightful Filipino waiters under the direction of Gabor the amiable Maitre D’.
M
y favourites were Parmesan and Anchovy Custard with Green Asparagus and Thyme; Pumpkin
and Ricotta Ravioli in Sage Butter; Oven Roasted Venison Loin with Celeriac Puree and Wild Mushrooms; and Raspberry and Yoghurt Cheesecake and Berry Sorbet. Those with exotic tastes could select from an alternative menu featuring local specialties. A wine list containing fine Aus- tralian and Old World wines put quality well ahead of price.
Our cruise continued south to Nha Trang
before Orion II began its navigation of the Saigon River. Looping like an intestine, this murky river is part of the Mekong Delta and
ships of all shapes and sizes – including speeding jetfoils – ensured Captain Mike Taylor and the local river pilot had their binoculars close at all times. The skyline of Ho Chi Minh City seems at odds with a country still nominally Communist and whose leaders remain socially conservative. Everywhere there’s evidence of this Asian tiger’s irrepressible strive to consumerism, if not flagrant capitalism. Back in 1955, Graham Greene
compared Vietnam’s polished illusions to a lacquered table: lovely, but so tough it takes no scratches. Today, he would scarcely recognise this commercial nexus with its designer boutiques along Dong Khoi Street exuding a glistening 21st century patina. For my part, the polished perfection on board the paragon of expedition cruise ships docked along the Saigon River was no illusion.
ORION FACTFILE
ABOUT: Australian-based Orion Expedition Cruises launched in 2004 and now ventures from Antarctica to the Russian Far East, with two ships offering a variety of ‘soft’ expedition voyages in five-star style. The destinations include the culturally rich Inland Sea of Japan; charismatic Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia; the rich diversity of Borneo; New Zealand and sub-Antarctic islands that few can visit; Papua New Guinea’s ancient and primitive cultures; the grand frontier of Australia’s unique Kimberley region; and the Antarctic Continent. MORE INFO: In the UK, call 020 7399 7620; in the US, 1877 674 6687; or visit
www.orionexpeditions.com.
Spring 2012 I WORLD OF CRUISING 75
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