VINTAGE MODERN Cartier Tank 1917
Louis Cartier (1875-1942), grandson of the firm’s founder, was inspired in his design by an aerial view of Renault tanks from the First World War. The square dial echoed the shape of the turret and body, while the longer sides of the case suggested the tank tracks. When Rudolph Valentino wore a Tank in his silent classics The Sheik (1921) and Son of the Sheik (1926), he sparked the craze for wristwatches and made the Tank an icon of this new phenomenon. The Tank Louis Cartier model was the model that the designer himself invariably chose as a gift to friends. In more than 90 years, it has been produced in more than 250 variations by Cartier and has been the inspiration for hundreds of similar styles. Cartier’s owner, the Richemont Group, describes the firm as a jewellery house rather than a luxury watchmaker. The Tank is a perfect piece of jewellery for men or women.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 1931 As well as having given us the classic button- down shirt, the ubiquitous knitted shirt and a global fashion brand, polo is also responsible for the creation of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. It is more than 80 years since a Swiss businessman called César de Trey heard a British polo player in India complain that he needed to protect his wristwatch from being smashed or damaged during the match. On his return to Switzerland De Trey met with Jacques- David LeCoultre and together they approached the Paris-based Jaeger Company and an
engineer called Rene-Alfred Chauvot to develop a solution. His simple yet extraordinary idea was to have the case on a sliding mechanism so that the face can be flipped inwards to leave only the back showing. His patent was granted on 4 March 1931.
The only word on the original dials was Reverso; two 80th anniversary models last year copied this style.
Rolex Submariner 1953 A strong contender for the title of most recognisable watch in the world, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner went into production in 1953 and was unveiled at the Basle watch fair in 1954. Designed for professional divers, it was the first watch to be water-resistant up to 100 metres (330ft). This was later strengthened by Rolex’s patented triple-seal Triplock winding crown, which can withstand depths of 300m (1,000ft). The mid-50s’ originals were free of many of the later refinements and additions. The Submariner originally featured a black matt- finished dial with round luminous hour markers, no surrounds, sold luminous sword hands and a trip lock crown, without any crown-protecting shoulders. The bezel has only ever turned counter clockwise so that divers cannot lose track of how long they have been submerged.
The 1680 model of the late 1960s was the first Submariner to feature with a date complication, marking the change from specialist diver’s watch to universal fashion accessory.
A STRONG CONTENDER FOR THE TITLE OF MOST RECOGNISABLE WATCH IN THE WORLD. Rolex Submariner
IT IS MORE THAN 80 YEARS SINCE A SWISS BUSINESSMAN CALLED CÉSAR DE TREY HEARD A BRITISH POLO PLAYER IN INDIA COMPLAIN THAT HE NEEDED TO PROTECT HIS WRISTWATCH FROM BE ING SMASHED OR DAMAGED DURING THE MATCH. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 1931
Orderline 0844 875 1515
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Illustrations; Clementine Mitchell
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