F&B
When gin is barely gin T
CI’s drinks expert Marcin Miller finds out what makes a good gin – and what makes gin, gin…
he following words have appeared before in this column; ‘the world of spirits has never been so dynamic’. The category which illustrates this more than any other is gin, which means London Dry Gin or, at a
push, Distilled Gin. A noteworthy anomaly is Plymouth Gin; made like London Gin it can only be distilled within the city walls of Plymouth. If you have ambitions for your establishment, anything merely labelled Gin should not be considered fit for your clientele; it is often made from a cheaper base spirit and the flavours (which can be artificial) are often cold compounded, which means simply stirred into the spirit.
London Dry Gin is not a regional classification but
a stylistic one; it must be made in a traditional still (usually a copper pot still) by re-distilling spirit with natural flavourings. In gin these are known as botanicals, a term which encompasses berries, fruits, seeds and peel. Crucially, from the perspective of flavour, no flavourings can be added after distillation. London Dry Gin is all about big, bold flavours and
tradition; the taste profile is usually driven by juniper and then citrus. Some of the newer gins experiment with more exotic and unusual botanicals, including tea and fresh fruit. This is fine as long as juniper is prevalent; after all, the word ‘gin’ comes from ‘genever’, the Dutch for juniper berries. This leads us to Distilled Gin which, like its
cockney cousin, must also be made in a traditional still with spirit redistilled with the botanicals. The key difference here is that flavour can be added after distillation. Thus various gins use cucumber infusions and distillates, rose, saffron and so thus. Distilled gins have greater freedom in terms of botanicals and appeal to experimental barmen. When juniper is absent or takes a back seat – which is becoming more common with some of the
Top five gins Beefeater 24 45% This super-premium
version of the classic Beefeater Gin is made with traditional botanicals with the addition of Japanese Sencha and Chinese green tea.
Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength 45.2% The higher strength Martin Miller’s
12 OCTOBER 2011
Gin is a favourite featuring citrus and balanced sweetness with hints of star anise and melon.
No. 3 London Dry Gin 46% This is the new
archetypal, juniper-driven London Dry Gin; luscious cardamom and coriander with delightful tart grapefruit and sweet orange peel.
Tanqueray 10 47.3% This luxury Tanqueray
with its extra citrus and floral botanicals tends to divide opinion. Arguably, it reinvigorated the category and there is certainly plenty going on…
Plymouth Gin 41.2% A most traditional and
straightforward gin; Plymouth is drying, rounded and balanced in the classic style and with gentle botanicals.
new gins – then I think it leads to consumer confusion and actually detracts from the category. I appreciate that consumers are broadening their horizons in what they drink, a reflection of increased interest in quality and provenance of food, and that people making drinks are attracted by the new and unusual but when a gin is released that looks and tastes of blackberries without a hint of juniper then why call it a gin? Presumably, because the category is exciting, gin is the bandwagon du jour. If barmen the world over weren’t bored by another ill-used category, then perhaps some of these flavoured abominations would simply be called vodka… How best to negotiate your way around the new
gins? First, use the terms described above as a guide to style. Secondly, and most unusually, price helps; if it carries a premium price tag and the words ‘distilled from 100% grain spirit’, then chances are it is made with care and attention. Thirdly, and also unusually, use strength as a guide; some of the more complex and aromatic notes show best at higher strength.
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