the buzz fromIDI
code red - part 2
Sally Penford concludes her look at coping strategies for sensitised skin
The first step in breaking the cycle of sensitisation is removing as many triggers from the contact-sphere as possible.
Lifestyle choices which are under the client’s control are an obvious place to start, such as smoking, alcohol and caffeine consumption. Likewise, stress may be managed to some degree through other lifestyle choices, such as the decision to exercise, pursue meditation, receive alternative therapies and massages, etc.
The other aspect of environmental sensitisation over which we all have less - if any control - is the presence of irritants in our environment. These irritants may be natural, like pollen, but most are manmade. These are in our world whether we want them there or not. Dealing with the effects of these chemicals upon the skin requires a regimen of care based around ingredients which arrest inflammation and restore damaged tissue.
cleansing
Cleansing the skin properly is the first step in strategic
care.As mentioned in Part 1, alkaline soaps and hot water set sensitisation into motion. Clients need to use an extremely gentle, sulphate-free, non-stripping gel or cream cleanser which will fortify the protective barrier function without leaving a residue. If the client is sensitised to water, the product may also be removed with tissue or a soft cloth.
Ingredients to look for in this type of cleanser, which also is appropriate for newly resurfaced skin, include Raspberry, a rich source of phytochemicals including ellagic acid that acts as an antioxidant, soothing Cucumber and Panthenol (provitamin B5) that helps to regenerate tissues.
calming
A spritz of calming spray is a recommended next step. Look for a soothing, hydrating mist to immediately relieve irritation - this sort of product may be used by the client throughout the day at times of irritation.
The newest and most effective formulas now contain cocktails of not only anti- inflammatory agents such asAvena Sativa, but ingredients to fight neurogenic inflammation, such as Red Hogweed. Oat extract is rich in OatAvenanthramides which are the active fractions of Oat that have been widely studied and proven to have natural anti-irritant and anti-redness properties; Ginger and Bisabolol (derived from Chamomile) when combined work synergistically to reduce inflammation- induced itch, redness and irritation. Combine this with Red Hogweed which targets neurogenic inflammation by limiting the production of pro- inflammatory agents (such as prostaglandins) and you have a complete system to target inflammation.
Masques are especially helpful to the sensitised client, since the prolonged contact of a calming relief masque product with the skin delivers lasting
effects. Typically, an appropriate masque of this type may be applied to spot-areas, or to the entire face, either for flare-ups as emergency relief, or for regular therapeutic use.
Key ingredients to select include pharmaceutical grade Colloidal Oatmeal, Red Hogweed,Mushroom (Cordyceps sinesis) extracts that reduce short and long term inflammation and redness. Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris) and algae extracts soothe irritation, and provide a light film to reduce redness from UV exposure and chemical irritants.
healing
Serum concentrates speed the healing process at times of severe inflammation (even post-cosmetic medical procedures), and ease the discomfort of long-term sensitisation.A concentrated booster can be the needed ‘brakes’ on runaway inflammation.
GUILD NEWS 53
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