The Northwest Territories’
Guides’ Favourite Mountain River
N by Wally Schaber
estled within a 50-mile radius of each other in the peaks of the Selwyn Mountains are the headwater landing sites of the Nahanni, Keele, Natla, Bonnett, Snake and Mountain Rivers. They're all great rivers but the guides'
choice is the Mountain for best all-around experience. Most canoeists charter a flight into Willow Handle Lake, the most popular starting point. Afew trips each year land at Dusty Lake farther upriver. The paddle down Black Feather Creek from Willow Handle is such an entertaining warm-up, complete with a snowfield, fishing hole, mini canyon and wake-you- up sweepers, that most canoeists rate this creek a perfect preview to the main show. The Mountain itself offers drama, challenge and suspense without the work or stress of other rivers. There are no portages—except out of Willow Handle Lake—the campsites are gor- geous, the mountain hikes accessible and varied, the wildlife plentiful (do not feed the griz- zlies), the canyons dramatic but passable. The whitewater is challenging on the outside (but safer on the inside) of each corner. The geology (hot springs, cold springs, moonscapes, salt licks, hoodoos, and mountain faces) is fascinating. Even the usually tedious flatlands are beautiful. And fewer than 100 people per year make the trip. Thanks to no-trace camping practices, every one of them can enjoy the exhilaration of a first descent.
Tips Flights—Northwright Air, 867-587-2288.
Accommodation—Mackenzie Valley Hotel, 867- 587-2511, Rayuka Inn, Yamouri Inn, or the campground 2 km outside of town.
Shuttle service and canoe rentals— Mountain River Outfitters,
www.mountainriver.nt.ca.
Guided trips—Black Feather,
www.blackfeather.com; Nahanni River Adventures,
www.nahanni.com.
Best watering hole—The Legion
Best place to kill an hour—Norman Wells Museum
Best (only) golf course—Ptarmigan Ridge, behind the Legion. “Open all night.”
Best advice—Budget for a room and hot shower after your trip. Don't fly out the same day you schedule your boat pickup.
How to do it From Yellowknife, take one of the daily flights to the bustling Mackenzie River com- munity of Norman Wells. From here, Northwright Air pilots are skilled and accom- modating at getting you into Willow Handle Lake as smoothly as mountain weather allows. Twin Otters carry three canoes, six people, plus gear. Mind the weight limit! Takeout logistics are easy with experienced boat driv- ers from Mountain River Outfitters to pick you up at the junction of the Mountain and Mackenzie rivers for a cool four-hour ride back upstream to Norman Wells. If you go with a packaged trip, the guide will pace the journey to make sure you stay at the best campsites and avoid the canyons during rain. Caution—All these Selwyn Mountain rivers will flash flood with heavy rains, rising overnight to change the canyons from placid to dangerous. It's the most threatening part of any of these trips.
2004 Annual 27
photo by Fred Loosemore
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