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BOUTIQUE CRUISING


contrasts walks on the wild side along pristine white beaches, clambering over high cliffs following sheep tracks, or visiting castles and gardens, with champagne on tap from the bar back on board. Itineraries can also be flexible according to weather conditions. On my voyage, we were supposed to see Barra and other southern Outer Hebrides islands but a force nine gale blew up and the captain decided to head across the Sea of the Hebrides for the shelter of Craignure on Mull, where we spent the day. This also meant missing out on Iona and Ulva but no one complained. It was all part of the adventure and, instead, we saw the splendid north


“There are NO KEYS to the cabins. Guests


PREFER IT this way”


side of Jura with its white beaches and Craignure with its gardens, palm trees and black-faced sheep feeding round the harbour, with a chance to use the ship’s bicycles to explore.


On the other hand, glorious weather at the start


of the voyage had favoured us. We sailed from Oban, the ship’s home port, literally with the sunset silhouetting the islands. A small school of porpoises leapt out of the water alongside while guests lingered on deck drinking Pimms and nibbling canapés.


passengers ashore while the crew prepared a dreamy beach barbecue and passengers walked around the island collecting small souvenirs from shell beach. The next day our luck held to visit the Shiant islands out from Lewis. Another beach landing between steep cliffs afforded walks along the shore for bird watchers or up on the cliffs, where one could hear the sound of seals on the rocks below. Adam Nicholson, who owns these deserted, protected islands, wrote a book called Sea Storm about them and copies can be seen in his small, unlocked sturdy stone cottage where one can sign the visitors book and admire his simple way of life without electricity or running water. The Zodiacs – such an essential part of


W


exploration here – cater well for the mainly elderly clientele (no children under nine are permitted) and


66 WORLD OF CRUISING I Spring 2011


ith such good weather, we headed straight to Muck, which is not always an easy landing. The Zodiacs shuttled


photos © Hebridean Princess


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