BOUTIQUE CRUISING
A Black Sea
Gary Buchanan enjoys a touch of old-fashioned chauvinism aboard the
unique Spirit of Adventure
Adventure B
ritish passengers tend to look at cruising with an exaggerated, almost messianic reverie. The risible implied lifestyle that comes with land-based holidays has inoculated them against great expectations; but the sight of the sea offers a sense of optimistic adventure and boundless possibilities. Occasionally, cruising also offers the chance for more than a soupçon of unbridled patriotism. By happenstance such a display of chauvinism manifested itself in the Black Sea last September. As Spirit of Adventure, with its contingent of around 350 Brits, approached the port of Sevastopol, it became obvious the sole berth for cruise ships was occupied by the French cruise vessel Le Boréal. Undaunted, Captain Kees Spekman performed
what is known in nautical circles as a ‘Mediterranean mooring’ and our ship dropped her anchor and manoeuvred stern-to in a small space aft of Le Boréal’s sleek hull. Close to our starboard bow was the ominous sight of the Russian navy’s Guided Missile Frigate 801 Ladnyy. The following morning in the port of Yalta, Britannia ruled the waves. Docked alongside the Embankment, Spirit of Adventure was allocated the prime berth, the position of Le Boréal, to our stern, required passengers to walk considerably further to reach their tour busses. That evening, a Saturday night when the Embankment assumed a carnival atmosphere with a local rock bank and carousel, a deck party was held
deck of Le Boréal looked bemused as they waved farewell to us, some appeared to shrug with that unmistakable air of hauteur. The remaining days of our ‘Ancient Greece and Crimea Cruise’ were Francophobia-free as our paths didn’t cross again. Unlikely as it may seem, having spent more than
I
20 years cruising our watery planet, the Black Sea had escaped my radar. Yearning for some late-summer
Spring 2011 I WORLD OF CRUISING 27
on the aft decks of our chosen vessel. A delicious barbecue of fresh fish and local sausages purchased that morning in the town’s colourful market, coupled with the joie de vivre of the party revellers, proved a convivial introduction to the Ukraine. The Captain announced that we were due to sail at 10.30pm, with Le Boréal departing 15 minutes earlier. Never one to miss a trick to entertain his passen- gers, Cruise Director Neil Horrocks took this opportunity to trade the jazz rhythms that had accompanied our barbecue for a selection of British patriotic favourites. With volume turned up a notch or three, ‘Land of Hope and Glory’ filled the open decks. Like a magician, Neil also produced several
Union Jacks. Word got round the ship like wildfire and, in no time at all, the decks became crammed with passengers eager to take part in a vainglorious display of patriotism.
t was like the Last Night of the Proms at sea as ‘Rule Britannia’ and ‘Jerusalem’ filled the balmy evening air. The few French passengers on the aft
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