St. Mary’s River Urban Adventure continued from p25


Mary’s River, maimed by development, have been lost forever.


The St. Mary’s was recently designated a Canadian Heritage River and is also con- tained within the managed boundaries of the Great Lakes Heritage Coast—which stretches from the Ontario–Minnesota border on Lake Superior to Georgian Bay’s Port Severn. No such designation can restore the river to its former splendour, but in the magic hour of the early morning mist or the evening’s set- ting sun, there are moments when the past overpowers the present. Tonight, it’s as though nothing has gone wrong. I see the fires and hear the drums and songs of reunit- ing people. I sit and reflect amidst the roar of the ever-powerful rapids before paddling on toward another era in the history of the St. Mary’s.


It was the construction of locks, a 15- minute paddle north of the rapids, which tamed the wilderness of the St. Mary’s. No longer was it necessary to endure the long portage upstream; gone was the danger of damaging a birchbark canoe on the down- stream run. Today, the American locks continue to


provide commercial access to the breadbas- ket of the continent. The Canadian locks—a National Historic Site—allow for small craft thoroughfare. I often lock through, following the posted


protocol to call the lockmaster on my marine radio, then posing for the cameras of dozens of tourists while waiting for the water level to adjust.


Locking through allows access to Lake


Superior, its open waters another 10 kilome- tres distant. But for tonight this is the end of the line. The first stars appear on the eastern horizon as I retrace my route downstream, escorted by a beaver that disappears as mys- teriously as it appeared, diving deep into dark waters.


When not leading kayak tours on Lake Superior's north shore, Conor Mihell is most likely back home in the Soo, day tripping on the St. Mary's River.


ADVENTUREkayakmag.com 41


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