WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, 2010

Undoing a Virginia vintner’s victory

WINE

Dave McIntyre

to Congress. Last month, Rep. Bill Delahunt (D-Mass.) intro- duced legislation pushed by beer and wine wholesalers that could make it nearly impossible for consumers to have wine shipped to their door. Delahunt’s bill would effective-

T

ly overturn a U.S. Supreme Court ruling issued five years ago this month in Granholm v. Heald, a case brought by the late Virginia vintner Juanita Swedenburg. The ruling held that states had pri- mary responsibility for regulat- ing the distribution of alcoholic beverages, but that they could not discriminate against out-of- state producers by allowing only their own wineries to ship to consumers. Granholm was not the total

victory that direct-shipping ad- vocates had hoped for, but it slowly turned the tide in their fa- vor. In 2005, 27 states allowed some form of direct-to-consumer wine sales. Today, through legis- lative efforts and court challeng- es, residents of 37 states and the District of Columbia are able to order a case of wine from a favor- ite winery and have it shipped to their homes. (An effort to legal- ize direct-to-consumer sales failed again this year in the Maryland legislature, although advocates say a deal has been reached to pass similar legisla- tion next year.)

Simply put, the direct-ship-

ping battle pits the 21st Amend- ment, which repealed Prohibi- tion and gave the states authority to regulate alcohol distribution (a compromise that allowed some states to remain “dry”), against the Constitution’s Com- merce Clause, which gives Con- gress, not the states, authority to regulate interstate commerce and trade. Delahunt’s bill, HR 5034, de- clares that alcoholic beverages are not like other consumer products, that they do not fall under the Commerce Clause and that states have ultimate author- ity to regulate their distribution. It would also place a high burden of proof on any legal challenge to a state’s distribution laws. With this bill, opponents of di-

rect shipping cannily enrobed their cause in three hot-button political issues: The bill would stop “deregulation” of alcohol by reinforcing “states’ rights” and limiting “excessive litigation.” At- torneys general from 39 states, including Maryland’s Douglas F. Gansler (D) and Virginia’s Ken Cuccinelli II (R), signed a letter to Congress supporting the bill. “America’s regulated three-tier system is, hands down, the best beverage alcohol distribution system in the world,” said Craig Wolf, president of the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America, referring to the traditional distri- bution system of producer-to- wholesaler-to-retailer. “It is im- portant that states retain their constitutional power to regulate the distribution of beverage alco- hol and are able to fend off litiga- tion which serves to destabilize or destroy that authority.” Wolf said the three-tier system

“stimulates innovation and com- petition and provides consumers with unprecedented choice and variety.” That, of course, is pre- cisely what direct-shipping pro- ponents say the system thwarts. “Wine is produced in all 50 states, including more than

he battle over direct ship- ping of wine from producer to consumer has returned

Recession busters

BBB Exceptional

BBExcellent BVery Good

Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.

This month’s recommended wines from Dave McIntyre, priced at $13 and under, are all from Portugal. The country continues to offer wines of high quality at prices that can only be called cheap. Vinho verde, the crisp, citrusy white wine from the north, is especially welcome at this time of year.

Aveleda Charamba, 2007

B 1

⁄2

Douro, Portugal, $7

This is a terrific red wine for the price, with rich fruit flavor seasoned with fun. It’s worthy of buying by the case as a summer house red, ideal with burgers or sausages on the grill.

Republic National: Available in the District at Burka’s Wine & Liquor, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Magruder’s, Pearson’s, Rodman’s, Sheffield Wine & Liquor, SuperFresh, Target Liquors.

Fuzelo Vinho Verde, 2009

B 1

⁄2

Portugal, $8

Vinho verde is a refreshing, crisp style of white wine from northern Portugal, ideal for warm-weather sipping and for washing down light snacks or seafood. The Fuzelo combines the tart acidity of this style with an appealing, zesty citrus flavor. This also is a case-worthy selection.

Dionysus: Available in the District at Whole Foods Market P Street. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; on the list at Tavira in Chevy Chase. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Daily Planet in Alexandria, Downtown Wine and Gourmet in Harrisonburg, J. Emerson Fine Wines and Cheese in Richmond, Market Street Wineshop in Charlottesville, Whole Foods Market Tysons Corner.

Lagoalva “Espirito” Red, 2007

B 1

⁄2

Tejo, Portugal, $13

This 50-50 blend of touriga nacional and castelao, two Portuguese grape varieties, is a light-bodied yet serious red wine, with dark fruit and smoky, earthy notes. The white, also called Espirito, is also quite good.

Winebow: Available in the District at Chats Liquors, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Pearson’s.

100 Marias, 2006

B

Alentejo, Portugal, $10

From Aragones (one of several Portuguese names for tempranillo) and trincadeira, this spicy red has some portlike flavors, yet it is dry and refreshing.

Dionysus: Available in the District at De Vinos, D’Vines. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis, Potomac Beer & Wine in Rockville, State Line Liquors in Elkton, Ye Olde Spirit Shop in Frederick. Available in Virginia at Fern Street Gourmet in Alexandria, Unwined in Alexandria and Belleview; on the list at Columbus Grill and Carmelo’s in Manassas.

Aveleda “Fonte,” 2008

B

Vinho Verde, Portugal, $7

This white is losing a bit of its acidity, but it still offers delicious melon and exotic fruit flavors and should please throughout the summer.

Republic National: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Georgetown Wine & Spirits, Magruder’s, Morris Miller, Paul’s of Chevy Chase, Potomac Wine & Spirits, Rodman’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, Sherry’s Fine Wine & Spirits,

SuperFresh, World Market; on the list at the Grill From Ipanema, Legal Seafoods, Vinoteca.

Gatao, 2009

B

Vinho Verde, Portugal, $8

Citrusy and refreshing, this vinho verde is an ideal hot-weather wine for pre-dinner sipping, by itself or with light appetizers.

Dionysus: Available in the District at Harris Teeter, A. Litteri, Rodman’s, Whole Foods Market P Street and Tenleytown. Available in Maryland at Balducci’s and Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda, Bin 201 Wine Sellers and Bin 604 in Annapolis, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Snider’s Super Foods in Silver Spring,

Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Tavira in Chevy Chase. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, various Whole Foods Market stores.

6,000 wineries: a 500 percent in- crease in the past 30 years,” said Rep. Mike Thompson (D-Calif.), who is leading the fight against H.R. 5034 in Congress. “Yet the number of wine wholesalers has decreased by more than 50 per- cent, creating a distribution bot- tleneck.” Thompson, whose district spans parts of Napa and Sonoma counties, said many wineries are dependent on self-distribution and direct-to-consumer sales to get around that bottleneck. “We don’t need a new federal

law,” he said. “The litigation will stop when states stop passing discriminatory laws promoted by the wholesalers.” News reports give the bill little chance of becoming law, partly because House Speaker Nancy Pelosi (D-Calif.) owns a vineyard and is said to be against any measure that would hurt small wineries. But that hasn’t stopped

SINCE 1875

UP

a swift groundswell of outrage. Free the Grapes, a direct-ship- ping advocacy organization, posted a letter to Congress on its Web site, and within three days more than 7,700 site visitors had used the feature to register their opposition, said Jeremy Benson, the group’s executive director and the owner of a wine-market- ing agency. And a Facebook page, StopHR5034, quickly gained thousands of supporters eager to write their representatives in op- position to the bill. “This bill is a threat because it

. . . could have implications in many states that currently allow direct-to-consumer shipping,” Benson said. “Consumers care about this issue because they see a monopolistic special interest trying to take away their ability to choose what wines to enjoy.”

McIntyre can be reached at

food@washpost.com.

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guage. Sure, you can jump in with a few basic words and ex- pressions and manage for a while. To reach true under- standing, however, you’re going to have to learn the grammar. I’d always used that compari- son as a casual simile. This past week, however, as I waded into the world of shochu, I literally had to learn a new language — or at least a bunch of challeng- ing words — to understand what was going on. Even after some pretty intense shochu study (by which I mean tasting a lot of it), I don’t think I’m any- where close to mastery of this traditional Japanese spirit. And I’m not certain I ever will be. Shochu, quite simply, is a fla-

L

vorful, aromatic, usually clear distilled spirit with a rather low alcohol content: around 25 percent by volume, or 50 proof. “It’s like Japanese vodka. That’s how I sometimes tell people to think of it,” says Andrew Sto- ver, sommelier at Sei in Penn Quarter. The restaurant and lounge carries about 20 sho- chus, one of the region’s largest selections.

Of course, shochu is lighter than vodka’s usual 80 proof. Like vodka, it can be produced in many ways, and many people are doing so, with more than 600 shochu distilleries in Japan. Shochus can be made from five base ingredients: mu- gi (barley), satsumaimo (sweet potato), kome (rice), soba (Jap- anese buckwheat) and kokuto (brown sugar). Before shochu is distilled, its production process is similar to that of sake in that koji, or mold spores, are used to start fermentation. The type of koji is another major factor in shochu’s taste, and there are three: White koji creates a fruit- ier and gentler spirit, black koji creates a more robust taste, and yellow koji is somewhere in be- tween. The highest-quality shochu, called honkaku (“authentic”), is single-distilled. In fact, the sin- gle distillation, at very low proof, is really what gives sho- chu its unique aromas and fla- vors. Once you start distilling shochu more than one time, it becomes . . . well, like vodka. Still following along? Domo

arigato. If not, don’t worry. “It is so confusing, and it is very diffi- cult to find information on this stuff,” Stover says. Adding to the confusion is the fact that in New York and California, sho- chu is sometimes relabeled “so- ju” — a different spirit altogeth- er, from Korea — to take advan- tage of loopholes that exempt soju from liquor regulation. My recent interest in shochu was piqued by “Japanese Cock- tails” (Chronicle), a new book by Yuri Kato, who is the found- er of the Web site Cocktail Times. The author discusses how “the image of shochu has drastically changed” in recent

KLMNO

Jason Wilson

K MG PG VA

Drink

Fluent in shochu, the ‘Japanese vodka’

SPIRITS

earning to taste and ap- preciate a new spirit is like trying to speak a new lan-

Silver Samurai

1 serving

The distilled white Japa- nese spirit called shochu can be used as a substitute in nu- merous cocktails calling for white spirits, but here it is showcased. Use shochu that is either

barley- or sweet potato-based. Be sure to pour all of the ingre- dients from the shaker into the glass.

Shochu is available at the Wine Specialist in downtown Washington (202-833-0707) and at Ace Beverage in North- west Washington (202-966- 4444).

Adapted from a recipe from Sei restaurant in Penn Quar- ter.

INGREDIENTS

· 3 or 4 slices peeled cucumber · Aounce freshly squeezed lemon juice

· Aounce freshly squeezed lime juice

· Aounce simple syrup (see NOTE)

· 2Aounces shochu (see headnote)

· Pinch cracked peppercorns, preferably pink (optional)

· Ice

years as the spirit has grown popular, particularly among Ja- pan’s young and hip. At one point in the past decade, sho- chu sales in Japan even sur- passed sake sales. Before then, shochu had been considered an old fogeys’ drink. In fact, an el- der named Shigechiyo Izumi (1865-1986), who in the 1980s became the oldest living person in the world at 120-plus, claimed that the secret to his longevity was the brown-sugar shochu he drank every day. I probably won’t live that

long, but I did introduce a mas- sive dose of shochu into my sys- tem when I tasted my way through Sei’s list with Stover last week. Overall, shochu provides an incredibly subtle taste experi- ence. My favorites were the bar- ley shochus, which I felt best balanced robust flavor with the fruit and floral aromas: in par- ticular, the racy Iichiko “Kuro- bin” (around $50) and the mel- low Gokoo “Comfortable Sky” ($40), which is aged in oak bar- rels for three years and had a whiskeylike profile. Sweet potato shochu, in par-

ticular, rose to popularity in Japan in the past decade, trig- gering a shortage of sweet pota- toes in that country. The most coveted sweet potato shochus come from Satsuma, a district in Kagoshima considered the historic home of shochu, dating to the 16th century. From Sei’s list, I enjoyed an expression of sweet-potato shochu called Sat- suma Shiranami ($35), which was bold and pungent with a

TRACY A. WOODWARD/THE WASHINGTON POST

STEPS

· Muddle the cucumber, the lemon and lime juices and the simple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Add the shochu, then fill halfway with ice. Pour, without straining, into a highball glass. Garnish with cracked peppercorns, if desired.

· NOTE: To make simple syrup, combine Acup of sugar and Acup

of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a slow rolling boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof container and let cool to room temperature.

NUTRITION | Per serving: 90 calories, 0 g protein, 16 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 9 g sugar

Recipe tested by Michael Taylor; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.

touch of sweet, and fiery around the edges. Another favorite was a rice shochu called Hakushika “Naka Naka Nai” ($35 per 750 ml), which means something like “very limited.” It is aged in ce- dar casks and has wonderful white-pepper notes. I also tast- ed a fascinating brown-sugar shochu produced in Japan’s Amami Islands. Sei carries one example of this type, and it tastes a lot like a low-proof ca- chaca, the Brazilian cane spirit. In fact, the restaurant some- times substitutes it for cachaca in a drink called a Japanese cai- pirinha. Beyond the basics, Sei also pours some wild, experimental bottlings distilled with green tea and carrots, and even stocks an amazing higher-proof ex- pression distilled from Hitachi- no Nest White Ale. So what do you do with sho-

chu? In Japan, most take sho- chu neat, on the rocks or, popu- larly, with hot water. In her book, Kato suggests adding oo- long tea or lemon. In cocktails, shochu offers a lower-proof alternative to many white spirits. The accompany- ing Silver Samurai recipe is a light mix of citrus, muddled cu- cumber, and barley or sweet po- tato shochu. You’ll understand it to be a wonderfully refresh- ing warm-weather drink in any language.

Wilson can be reached at food@washpost.com. Follow him on Twitter at www.twitter.com/

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