16 FOOT FEB10 agent prov:Footwear_Jan10_p12 02/02/2010 13:15 Page 16
AGENT PROVOCATEUR
Agent Provocateur
W
hat’s the first thing you do when you think it’s time to cancelling orders, but when the “boot is on the other foot” (excuse
look for a new brand or decide to change the look of the pun), and the supplier has someone who wants to do the job
your shop? Do you go along to the Moda footwear fair properly for them, Mr. Retailer doesn’t like it. However, when
and look for a brand or range of shoes that inspires Mr X in Blackpool wants to buy from a new supplier, he would
you, or do you wait until the first “rep” comes through your not dream of asking his existing suppliers if they would mind
door with a new brand, and buy from him/her? sharing their pairage with another supplier. He won’t care less
When you finally decide on the brand for you and you make that the new supplier will get pride of place in the window in
contact and say that you would like to buy from Mr X, the advertising etc. – and maybe because he has been
how many times have you been turned down offered a personal incentive that has brightened up
because your major competitor in the next town his week. Is this fair? Of course it’s not.
already buy’s from Mr X, and they will not supply I’m not saying that retailers should sell the
you for this reason? What do you think is a safe same products for the life of the store, and I am
distance for a supplier to give “exclusive rights” not saying that suppliers should not open with
to the supply of his/her produces to you? new retailers, but what I am saying is that the
Agents/supplier’s/manufacturer’s are faced “agency agreement” story is a two way street, and
with this problem on a daily basis. If the brand is if you sell one particular brand really well in your
any good and gives a decent ‘mark up’, then the store then talk to your suppliers and tell them that
chances are that Mr Retailer will want to buy your you will be loyal to them if they are loyal to you, but
goods and it is inevitable that retailers will be don’t expect them to jump through hoops if you are
fighting to have your products in their store. It is up doing less than “a good pairage” per season with
to the supplier to judge the best possible solution for them.
his brand and to supply the retailer of his choice with So, don’t forget to put the dates for the footwear
these factors in mind: - exhibitions in your diaries where you are guaranteed to
1. Will the goods supplied be paid for? see brands committed to dealing with retailers in the
2. Will the retailer concerned do a professional U.K. and prepared to put their money where their
and proper job for the supplier? mouths are. With quality brands Loake’s, Cheaney,
3. Will the retailer satisfy the suppliers hunger
for pairage?
4. Will the retailer make money out of your
goods and make it worth while for both
Agents/supplier's/manufacturer's are faced with this
parties’s to continue business together? And
problem on a daily basis. If the brand is any good and gives
if you have the luxury of choice….who is the
nices person to deal with?! a decent 'mark up', then the chances are that Mr Retailer
Most good retailers are not ‘brand collectors’.
They don’t cherry pick, and are able to give the
will want to buy your goods and it is inevitable that retailers
suppliers they buy from, good brand awareness in
their store. There are some retailers that “collect
will be fighting to have your products in their store.
brands”, who are not doing themselves or their
suppliers any favours, as too many brands in-store
only confuses the general public and does nothing for the Start-rite and Hush Puppies making a come back to
suppliers, often costing more money to service the account MODA this season, it proves that as tiring and costly as
than money made out of supplying them. exhibitions are – there is no substitute for face-to-
In my experience when an existing retailer, (for the purpose of face interaction between supplier and customer.
argument let’s say in Blackpool) who buys only 48 pairs from the Many brands offer discounts, incentives or special
supplier, is approached by the supplier to tell them (out of offers - and it may save you time buying later. You
courtesy) that they will be supplying another retailer 18 miles west will also see all the ranges laid out, rather than
of Blackpool (who is probably prepared to buy in excess of 100 what your agent or representative can fit in the car
pairs), Mr X in Blackpool ‘throws his dummy out of the pram’ and or chooses to show you! Even if you just visit to see
goes mad at the idea. Normally ‘Mr Retailer’ makes the most the season’s colour palette or what you may be
noise when he finds a reject amongst his 48 pairs, or has spent missing, it will be worth the time out of your four walls
too much money and wants to take it out on his suppliers by to ‘see outside the box’ in more ways than one!
16
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FOOTWEAR TODAY
•
FEBRUARY 2010
www.footweartoday.co.uk
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