Totally Tuber
Out with the Potato, In with Roots & Tubers Melissa Matarese
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With the shift of seasons, chefs honor seasonality by showcasing early-winter vegetables. Whether it be farm- ing a restaurant garden, or shopping the local farmers’ market, as the weather gets cooler, root vegetables are as valuable as a peach or ripe tomato is during the summer months. Although simple preparations are favored, chefs highlight the level of finesse and effort in execut- ing vegetables as works of art. Chef John Touzle of the girl & the fig points to the fact that as ingredients become more commonplace, the more amenable they are to home preparation. “Root vegetables are different; Jerusalem artichokes, rutabaga or parsnips are ingredients to which the public has not had much access. If they have, it has likely not been a positive experience. It is important to take what is pedestrian, but not necessarily exotic, and prepare them properly and in season.” Whether slicing a Jerusalem artichoke for texture, julienning a parsnip for a salad, or utilizing the color and sweetness of a parsnip for vinaigrette, these preparations are a far cry from French fries. Chef Jordan Mackey of Cuvée in Napa Valley also loves the seasonality, but emphasizes the cost effective-
ness of these ingredients. “I can fly asparagus from South America for $40 a case or get 140 pounds of parsnips.” His objective as a chef is to build trust from his clientele. “It is fun to expose our clients to vegetables they do not see on a daily basis.” He surprises them with exotic roots such as salsify but gravitates towards familiar, well received flavors such as maple honey, spices, roasted apples, brandy and chestnuts.
Sweet success with wood-firepreparations Root vegetables love a wood-fire oven; this
preparation is the most familiar to the average diner. Carrots, turnips and parsnips can all be roasted whole and finished to order, a perfect prepa- ration for fall and winter weather. At the girl & the fig, wood-fire roasted roots are topped with chest- nuts, honey, and ricotta salata – a balance of sweet and salty. “People go crazy over it as a side-dish or even as an entree.”
While a side-dish of smashed rutabaga might pop off the menu for some, it might be intimidating to many. When these lesser-known roots are gently paired with
Culinary Trends | Mid Winter 2011
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