Foshee supports unabashed experimentation:
“Pickle anything!” He likes using sous vide methods to keep the crunch but add the layers of flavor. This system allows him to take a high water-content,
delicate ingredient like watermelon, pickle it, and reunite it with its similarly pickled rinds in an interesting interplay that sets off a salad or crudo brilliantly. Ogden also supports testing the flavor waters, using alternate vinegars, spices and aromatics. Alternating containers is another way to diversify effects. Monsalud uses harsh crocks (mostly for German style krauts) and jars of all kinds in his pickle practice.
Barrel tasting When pickling, there are a number of variables –
temperature, time, container, space, vinegar or salt content – and always room to go a little wrong. Trial and error is almost implicit. “You’re bound to have failures; keep trying,” Espinas encourages. He adds that it’s hard to find flavor and texture consistency, especially with the fermented variety. Vinegar pickles have challenges too. Milgrom advises,
“Use quality vinegar. The solution should pickle the prod- uct without canceling out the product’s natural flavor.”
Once the vegetables have sat in the brine too long, Copley cautions, no amount of sugar can bring them back. Ogden also warns that a brine that is too hot can over-blanch and kill some of the natural flavors and nutrients. Keep trying. “There are innumerable recipes and variations” Monsalud points out, “if a few work, [and if stored properly] you can have a great ingredient that lasts up to six months to a year.”
Brining out the best
Chefs vary on what comprises a basic brine, but a loose go-to involves (often in equal parts) water, sugar and vinegar (often rice, champagne or white wine). Salt, along with any medley of thyme, mustard seed, bay, celery seed, chilies, ginger, garlic, pepper corns and other spices also joins the party. For dark fruit, Espinas likes to use a red wine-based brine, seasoned with cloves, allspice and nutmeg. With endless recipes and uses, the current pickle-
makeover invites creativity, promotes health and prom- ises flavor. There’s a reason delis have made a names off this sandwich-wingman. Viva la pickle revolution!
WALDORF SALAD OF ESCAROLE HEARTS, SPICED WALNUTS, BLUE CHEESE & QUINCE DRESSING
INGREDIENTS [Pickled grapes] 2 cups red wine vinegar 2 cups red wine 4 cups water 1 cup sugar 1/8 cup salt Sprig of tarragon 4 cloves 6 allspice berries Shard of a cinnamon stick 1/2 tsp ground ginger 2 lbs of firm red grapes, like red flames
METHOD Wash the grapes. I like to
leave them on the stem, in bunches of three or four. Bring the brine to a boil,
simmer for 3 to 4 minutes and then turn off and let it cool for 5 minutes. Place the grapes in non-reactive container, preferably a jar with a good lid. Pour the brine over, seal the jar and place in the fridge. Let the flavors mingle for 3+days. They will keep
for 3 to 4 weeks in the fridge.
[Quince dressing] 2 quince, peeled and cored 1 bay leaf 1 Tbsp sugar Salt/pepper Water
1 shallot, diced 1/2 cup cider vinegar Extra virgin olive oil
METHOD First, you want to cook the
quince as if you were making an apple sauce. Cut quince into sections, season and place in a small sauce pan with enough water to cover the bottom. Cook on a low temp for an hour or so until fully broken down. Keep stirring it and mashing bits of it on the side of the pan to help the process along. Cook until the quince sauce has a reddish- brown appearance and looks as if it were pureed. When done, let the puree cool.
Macerate the shallot in the vinegar for 20 minutes. Place it in a blender and mash it up. Add the quince to emulsify. Finally add olive oil to achieve proper bal- ance and texture.
[Spiced Walnuts] 2 cups walnuts, toasted 2 Tbsp ground allspice 2 Tbsp black pepper 1 Tbsp smoked paprika 1/2 Tbsp cayenne 4 cloves, ground
1/2 cup sugar (we use half white and half brown)
METHOD Preheat oven to 325°F.
Put sugar and spice into a small sauce pan. Cover with 1 1/2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cook until it takes on a loose syrupy tex- ture. Place the walnuts in a large mixing bowl and pour the glaze over. Be sure to mix the nuts well, evenly coating all of
them. Let walnuts cool on a sheet pan; make sure they are separate so they don’t stick together. To get a crispier texture, place the walnuts in the oven and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. The walnuts keep for a week at room temperature in a sealed container.
PHOTO BY SARA KRAUS
Saloon Cook/Grub Slinger Carlo Espinas Comstock Saloon San Francisco, CA
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