Grain, continued from Previous Page
like meats and fish or serve as a blank slate upon which fancy sauces and stews are designed to shine. No longer. Artful chefs are incorporating ancient grains, seeds, and more esoteric grain varieties into their menus, challenging diners to explore starches in a whole new manner. The most innovative establishments have moved these staples from supporting characters to main stars.
G
More grist for the mill Between farro, quinoa, wheatberries, barley, ama-
ranth, bulghur, millet, spelt – the list goes on ad infinitum – a chef interested in ancient grains will face no shortage of flavors, colors and textures to play with. Chefs already taking the plunge cite a wealth of benefits that these spe- cial grains bring to their establishments. For Mark Sullivan, Executive Chef at Palo Alto’s May-
field Bakery and Café, the versatility of ancient grains is their major draw. “There’s been an explosion with these grains, really. What I love is the different flavors you get, depending on how you treat them. If you toast them, they get nutty. If you simmer them in broth, they become rich in that flavor. You can use their flour to make pasta or use
rains are so basic to our diet that they often go unnoticed. Shoved to the side of the plate, they commonly accompany more exciting fare
the grains to make a risotto. You can add them to a soup.” “Ancient grains are some of my favorite ingredients,”
exudes Daniel Patterson, Executive Chef at San Fran- cisco’s Coi and owner of Oakland’s hit new establishment, Plum. “I have to be careful not to use them too much. He’s also quick to note the versatility of ancient grains. “At Plum we have a chicken-giblet fried farro paired with a slow-cooked farm egg and sprouts. We have a lamb stew with sunchokes and wheatberries. We’ve done a buckwheat pancake. Grains are really complementary to anything.” Jason Knibb, award-winning Executive Chef at
Nine-Ten in La Jolla, finds that ancient grains help add depth to his menu. “I first found these grains working in Utah, where the mountain climate brought heartier flavors. You get smoky, earthy tones out of them, which is fun to play with. Here in La Jolla, we tend to use grains like quinoa, farro or barley to give more suste- nance to vegetarian plates, though they pair well with meats too.” Daniel Burckhard is Executive Chef at San Fran-
cisco’s the Tipsy Pig, a “gastrotavern” that relishes op- portunities to surprise its diners. Ancient grains have never disappointed. “I love ancient grains. It’s nice to have something people have never had or heard of. We serve a lot of heavier dishes here – pot pies and
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH, PEA PEPITAS, FETA & MINT FARRO SALAD
INGREDIENTS 2 1/4 cups farro
(500 gram package) 1 Tbsp kosher salt 7 cups water
2 cups Brussels sprouts 2 cups butternut squash, peeled, diced
1/2 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
3/4 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1/2 cup mint leaves, hand torn
1/3 cup sherry wine vinegar
1/2 cup +1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup chives, slivered Sea salt
18
Black pepper METHOD
In a saucepan, bring the 7 cups of water to a boil, add the 3 Tbsp of kosher
salt. Add the farro all at once; bring back to a boil. Then turn the heat down and simmer for 45 minutes or until all of the water is absorbed and the farro is tender. When done, pour the cooked farro into a wide bowl and chill. Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss the butternut
squash with the 1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and black pepper to taste. Place in a rimmed baking pan and place in the oven. After 10 minutes, give the squash a stir and let it roast 10 minutes more or until just tender. Remove from the oven and let cool.
Cut off the base of the Brussels sprouts and remove the outer leaves. Save the hearts for another
use. Bring a large pot of water to a full boil; salt ag- gressively. Set up an ice bath nearby. Plunge the Brussels sprouts leaves into the water and cook for just 15-20 seconds. Drain im- mediately and submerge in the ice bath. When chilled, drain the leaves again and pat dry with paper towels.
ASSEMBLY In a large bowl gently toss the farro, butternut squash, Brussels sprouts leaves, pumpkin seeds and mint.
Add in the feta cheese, sherry wine vinegar, 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and black pepper to taste.
Mound the salad on chilled plates and sprinkle the chives over the top.
Chef Don Dickman Barbrix
Los Angeles, CA
Culinary Trends | Mid Winter 2011
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