with cauliflower puree and braised rainbow chard. “I was looking for something new,” he explains. “I had used lentils, red quinoa and farro before. I wanted something I’d never worked with. I like that it’s the only grain where there’s no processing in- volved from farm to table. You can digest the whole grain.”
“I love the color and contrast that a darker grain
provides,” he continues. “Most of our flatware is white and with all these fall colors on top of the black barley, it’s really pretty plated.”
Respecting the source Perhaps not surprisingly, chefs have different views
on how to treat ancient grains, many of which devel- oped over thousands of years of cultivation within dis- tinct culinary traditions. For some, it is critically important to pay homage
to that history. “We’re always careful to respect the ori- gin of an ingredient,” says Chef Dickman. “I won’t do anything too fusion-y. But there’s plenty of room in that box to keep seasonal and move it around. Part of printing a menu each day is changing it up a bit. We have a lot of regular customers so we need to keep it interesting.”
“All of these grains are very ancient,” explains Chef
Patterson. “Something like quinoa is thousands of years old. Using them allows you to trace back the history of a food through culture. There’s a fascinating element about grains in that they lead you to a broader understanding of how people have traditionally fed themselves.” However, this knowledge doesn’t limit his utiliza- tion of the grains. Rather it allows him to understand their unique qualities so he can use them more effec- tively. “I think it’s important to understand it before you can improvise. You need to know what the standards are. But ultimately, why would I recreate traditional dishes? I’m not them. I create something that is meaningful to me.” Chef Hsian offers a similar analysis. “A lot can be
learned from indigenous preparations, so as much as possible we draw upon that. Sometimes however, that information isn’t readily available. It’s also fun and re- warding to incorporate rustic grains in place of more conventional starches or flours. Also, because rustic grains are gaining in popularity, there are wonderful new products that present these grains with a twist, such as quinoa pasta, allowing for a multitude of uses that might not have occurred traditionally. At the end of the day, the culinary possibilities are endless.”
PAN SEARED DAY BOAT SCALLOPS: CAULIFLOWER PUREE, BLACK BARLEY, SOFRITO, BRAISED RAINBOW CHARD, CHORIZO/MEDJOOL DATE RELISH
INGREDIENTS [Scallops] 3-4 scallops Pinch of salt Pinch of white pepper Olive oil to coat
[Puree]
1 head cauliflower 2 cloves garlic 1/2 cup cream 2 Tbsp melted butter 2 qts chicken stock
METHOD
Cook cauliflower florets and garlic cloves in chicken stock till soft. Puree with melted butter
and cream in a blender. Pass thru fine mesh strainer and season with salt.
[Black Barley] 1 onion chopped 1 gypsy pepper
2 tomatoes seeded and chopped
4 cloves garlic 2 cups barley
8 cups chicken stock 4 cups water Pinch saffron 2 sprigs oregano 2 sprigs thyme
METHOD
In pan saute onions, gar- lic, tomato, saffron, thyme until soft. Add barley and then add chicken stock and water. Cook until tender.
[Rainbow Chard] 3 large leaves chard, ribs removed
Pinch chili flake 2 tsp garlic
1/4 cup chicken stock 1 Tbsp lemon juice
METHOD Saute garlic, chili flake.
Add chard (ribs removed). Add Meyer lemon juice and chicken stock.
[Chorizo/Medjool Date Relish]
1 piece chorizo
2 Medjool dates chopped 2 tsp coriander 1 Tbsp pine nuts 1 tsp Meyer lemon zest Olive oil to coat
METHOD
Saute chorizo, add corian- der seeds, add chopped dates, add toasted pine nuts, lemon juice.
Chef Daniel Burckhard the Tipsy Pig
San Francisco, CA PHOTO BY SARA KRAUS 23
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