Chocolate, continued from Page 25
Oakland’s Picán restaurant puts a new spin on their dessert menu by incorporating southern touches with their innovative chocolate creations. Their sorghum and white chocolate pot de crème varies widely from the standard, with white chocolate, bourbon cherry sauce, a molasses tuille and crème fraiche. Chef Dean Dupuis de- scribes it saying, “Dark chocolate can be overly rich, so white chocolate is a nice alternative. We wanted to add a Southern flavor and we already use the sorghum (it’s a great southern sweetener) and it adds a kind of toasty nutty or smoky flavor similar to molasses but not as strong. We’ve played around with spices, chilies, cinna- mon and pepper. They can add a great flavor…and chocolate takes flavors very well.”
Chef Dupuis also features his unique take on a clas-
sic cocktail combo “Bourbon & Coke,” which is made up of a chocolate Coca Cola cake with caramel milk chocolate ganache and some “bourbon panna cotta in a shot glass so it looks like milk. People love the classic milk and chocolate cake idea, but we’ve played with it, and added a southern twist and made it our own.”
Chocolate with a buzz Chocolate liqueurs like Godiva have been popular
with bartenders for years, but more recently chefs have been experimenting with another innovative chocolate pairing that breweries have been tinkering with for decades – chocolate and beer. Haven Gastropub’s most
CARROT, COCOA NIBS, GRAINS OF PARADISE
INGREDIENTS [Brown Butter Carrot Cake] 2 eggs
1 cup sugar 8 oz butter
1/2 tsp grains of paradise 1/2 tsp star anise 1 cup high gluten flour 1 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp salt 2 cups carrots, grated
METHOD Put butter in a small pot
and brown it, let cool and reserve at room temperature. In a mixer with the paddle at- tachment, mix eggs and sugar. Then, add all the dry ingredients, previously sifted. Incorporate brown butter
and carrots. Put mixture in a mold with parchment paper (any shape or size mold will work) and bake at 325°F low fan for 30 minutes. Let cool on a rack.
[Chocolate Cremeux] 250 ml cream 250 ml milk 100 grams yolks 50 grams sugar
28
194 grams Francois Pralus Djakarta Criollo Trinitario Chocolate
METHOD Make anglaise with eggs
and sugar. When ready, strain it over chocolate for a total of 500 grams of the mixture. Mix vigorously to emulsify, until texture is homogeneous pudding-like. Put in a bowl, cover with plastic in direct contact with the mixture to prevent it from forming a dry layer on top & refrigerate until ready to plate.
[Carrot & Cocoa Nib Sorbet] 2 cups freshly made carrot juice
1/2 cup cocoa nibs 1/4 cup trimoline Pink sea salt to taste Sherry vinegar to taste
METHOD
In a bowl mix juice and trimoline. Season mix & freeze in ice cream ma- chine. When sorbet is ready and coming out of the machine, fold in coca nibs and reserve in freezer until ready to plate.
[Pickled Carrots] 1 cup water
1/2 cup sherry vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 2 carrots
METHOD
Combine water, sherry and sugar in pot and bring to a boil. Peel carrots and continue peeling strips with vegetable peeler until done with both carrots; then place strips in a bowl and add boiling liquid over and cover with plastic. Reserve.
[Honey Comb Crunch] 325 grams sugar 50 grams light honey 125 grams glucose 60 ml water
15 grams baking soda Pink sea salt to taste
[Honey and Grains of Paradise Gastrique] 100 grams honey
1/2 tsp grains of paradise Pink sea salt to taste 180 ml sherry vinegar
METHOD
Cook honey with grains of paradise, pulverized until it reaches a deep caramel color. Stop cooking process by adding vinegar. Cook for 2 more minutes and take off heat. Let cool and season with salt. Reserve.
PLATING
Cut cake into 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch cubes and place in center of plate. Quenelle chocolate cremeux and set on top of cake. Put some cocoa nibs next to one of the corners of the cake and place sorbet quenelle on top of it. Sauce around gastrique and place small chard of honey comb crunch on top
PHOTO BY SARA KRAUS
and around quenelles. Decorate nicely with strips of pickled carrots and pul- verized grains of paradise.
Chef/Owner Christopher & Veronica Laramie eVe Restaurant Berkeley, CA
Culinary Trends | Mid Winter 2011
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