Culinary Trends | Mid Winter 2011


mac ‘n cheese – so I always try to keep something light and healthy on the menu in contrast.”


Ancient grains also help chefs defy the limits of seasonal cooking, particularly in winter months. “In the winter, when there’s not a lot of fresh produce, these grains can be substituted on the plate,” Chef Knibb offers. “It’s diversifying.”


Acting in concert with these advantages are the


undeniable health benefits ancient grains bring, especially compared to other starches and more conventional counter- parts. “As cooking generally evolves away from protein-based dishes, which is in- evitable for health and environmental rea- sons,” Chef Patterson explains, “these grains will become a much bigger piece of how we feed ourselves – whether at the highest level of cuisine or at home cooking in a way that’s comforting and nourish- ing.”


Fawning over farro


Asked what grain is the clear hit among diners, chefs answer almost unan- imously in favor of farro. “As grains have come to the forefront of the menu as a healthy way of eating and star ingredient, farro offers a great story to boot,” explains Don Dickman, Executive Chef of Santa Monica’s Bar- brix. “Farro is the original wheat. It origi- nates from Tuscany – a very romanticized region of Italy.” But farro offers more than mere talk- ing points. “It has a unique, nutty flavor, yet it feels light compared to other grains,” he continues. “Once cooked, the grains stay separate and it doesn’t feel starchy or gluey like rice might. We’ve experimented with everything out there. Texturally, farro works best.” For Executive Chef Greg Murphy,


farro was the perfect grain for the rustic cuisine at Bouchon, which also boasts a long wine list sourced entirely from Santa Barbara County. “As a grain, farro is a little bit heavier, so you can pair it with wine and it stands up to gamier meats like venison. We caramelize onions really dark and throw the farro in, then cook it in chicken stock and red wine. It goes on our smoked venison dish.”


“Our menu changes every single day,


but we use farro fairly consistently,” offers Jed Cote, Sous Chef at Oakland’s red-hot establishment, Pizzaiolo. “Our cuisine draws heavily from Southern Italy and Sicily. So it just fits.”


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With a dynamic daily menu, Cote must devise cre- ative, unique utilizations for farro. “Some dishes we run over and over again, like our Georgia white shrimp with farro, wild nettles and hot pepper. We also use ground farro for pastas. It has a wonderful rustic, earthy, wheaty-flavor that we pair with fava beans and fresh Bellwether Farms ricotta.”


See Grain, Continued on Page 21


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