THE GOOD LIFE Travel
As well as taking in the majesty of Palau’s rock islands (opposite), visitors can also enjoy spectacular diving, watch the world from the Four Seasons Explorer or sample local culture
board; he is leading the way. The only rec- ognised international hotel group that has a presence here is Four Seasons, in which Ong is a big investor. For the moment, that presence is in the form of the Four Seasons Explorer, a 39-metre dive catamaran, which probes the best sites and most scenic loca- tions on a weekly cycle. Soon, however, the group plans to open a 50-room resort.
P
alau’s archipelago melds volcanic and coral islands, representing different stages and types of island formation,
encircled by one of the world’s best-devel- oped reef systems. It sits on the Philippine plate, near the join with the Pacific and the Australian plates. Seismic forces are push- ing Palau upwards at one metre every 2,000 years. Moating the archipelago, deep trenches score the ocean floor. As the natu- ralist Augustin Krämer wrote, Palau is sur- rounded by ‘the strangest submarine geo- morphic conditions on Earth’. Meanwhile, Palau is simultaneously
washed by currents from the Philippines, Indonesia and Micronesia. The combina- tion of exotic geology, shiſting plates, deep trenches, strong tides and tight environ- mental protection creates a natural labora- tory for studying island formation, reef de- velopment and marine life. I find the Four Seasons Explorer anchored
in the lagoon. In live-aboard dive-boat terms, ‘luxury’ usually means electricity and flushing loos. The Explorer, however, takes luxury to a new dimension. The dive deck would have turned Jacques Cousteau mango-green with envy. The kitchen is out- standing, although two regional delicacies that were in season – fruit-bat soup and green turtle – were strangely off the menu. The predominantly Maldivian staff are
helpful and friendly. The 10 cabins and one suite are comfortable and pared down. A bar/lounge/dining room opens on to a small
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