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Outlook:


Where true grit give's way to gentler things


THERE are many high­ lights on the Pennine Way: Kinder Downfall, Malham, the summits of Penyghent and Cross Fell, High Force, Hadrian’s Wall. But they need not be as


high, but what makes little Pinhaw so memorable to the walker who has toiled to the summit from distant Edale in Derbyshire, is that, really for the first time, you actually begin to feel that you are getting somewhere at last. The previous sixty odd miles have been through an interesting but rather grim landscape; the dark, peaty vastnesses of Bleaklow and Black Hill; the brooding romantic expanses of Bronte country.


I)


Malham Cove and the gash of Gordale Scar — ‘terrific as the lairAVhere the young lions couch’ as Wordsworth puts it — are often clearly visible; and beyond them lie the wrinkled tops of Atter- mire Scar, Rye Loaf Hill, and the unmistakable pro­ files of Ingleborough and Penyghent. These hills are as open


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and inviting as the country already traversed was dour and secretive. The prospect is indeed fair, and many a Pennine Wayfarer must have trotted down the long, swinging track to Earby Youth Hostel with spring- heeled boots. But Pinhaw isn’t just for


on, the view from the top of Pinhaw shows clearly that new territory has been reached. There before you lies the wide strath of the Aire Gap, a sweet agricul­ tural landscape of contented cows grazing on grassy drumlins, threaded by the Leeds and Liverpool canal. And beyond that, a short day’s march away, lies a new and exciting prospect: limestone country. The chalky smudge of


Colne-Keighley road near Cowling, the landscape begins p e rc ep tib ly to change. Lothersdale is the first place on the Way which merits the description of ‘charming’. A mile and a half further


But, after crossing the


ticular favourite of mine, is the summit of that wedge of high grazing land and heather moor that lies between Skipton and Colne known as Pinhaw Beacon. It may only be 1,273 feet


spectacular as this list might suggest: many quiet, almost insignificant places can provide the long-dis: tance walker with memora­ ble moments. Such a spot, and a par­


PAUL WILSON suggests a gentle walk where the Pennine and Pendle Ways con­ verge and finishes with a pint at a local inn full of characater


taste of being on tops. It’s a fine walk for small children and a grand place to lie a-dreaming in the sunshine.


To the west, not far from


Pinhaw, another longish distance footpath crosses this compact area of high ground - the 45 mile circular walk known as the Pendle Way. For newcomers to the district, nothing could be b e tte r than a leisurely stroll, over several days, around th is sp len d id footpath.


grand, familiar landmarks, such as Pendle Hill itself, and some quieter, less familiar corners. One such little known nook lies a mile or so from Pinhaw, the pretty little dell which shel­ ters Kelbrook Woods, which the walk passes on its way from Kelbrook to Laneshaw Bridge.


The way takes in some


is a p le a san t, ramble through quiet country, ris­ ing gently to the sad ruin of Scald Bank, emerging a little further onto the old turnpike road right next door to the Hare and Hounds inn at Black Lane End.


This section of the way


beautifully situated pub with its splendid views down the valley to Colne, Nelson and beyond has been a beer-drinking rambler’s nightmare: a pub th a t doesn’t open during the day! How many Pendle Way walkers, I wonder, have broken into a weary trot at the sight of the pub, only to end up forlornly rattling the door handle in th irs ty desperation, or pressing their noses against the win­ dows in the hope of striking pity in the heart of the land­


For many years, this


lord lurking in the shadows of this darkened bar? But the good news is that this sad scenario will no longer overtake the unwary wan­ derer - or at least, only on certain days - because, under new management, the Hare and Hounds is now open on Monday, Wednes­ day, Friday and Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. Sensible ramblers will make a note (in their special Gor- tex covered filofaxes) to avoid Black Lane End on Tuesdays and Thursdays.


the walk from Kelbrook ( or even from Edale for that matter). The Hare and Hounds is a Timothy Tay­ lor’s house, serving best bitter and mild, both excel­ lent brews. The bitter is hoppy, handsome in colour and altogether delicious.


The beer is well worth K., 1


esconced by the open fire with your pint, because there’s a pleasant walk ahead, as the Pendle Way threads its way through quiet lanes and farm tracks up the Knarrs Hill.


B u t d o n ’t g e t too


hill, Knarrs is nobutt a pim­ ple. But a pimple with aspirations to be an alp, with its smattering of rocks, a real trig point, and grand views into both Lancashire and Yorkshire. The path then takes you gently down, in the company of Shawhead Beck to Laneshaw Bridge, where you will pass the Emmott Arms, another interesting pub, which serves another smashing pint, Hartley’s of Ulverston — but that, I’m afraid, is another story.... □


If Pinhaw is only a little ) \ f .a


a j| E S S - 1 <


!si JT in c ! The Hare and Hounds, Black Lane Ends = SOLID WOOD FURNITURE = CUSTOM CRAFTED


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the super-fit long distance walker. The summit is close enough to the old Colne- Skipton road (where there is plenty of car parking space), and the ascent is gentle enough to allow the elderly or infirm to have a


delivered in style


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