DE S T INAT IONS
BASTILLE To the east of Paris on the Rive Droite lies the historic Bastille area, easily accessible to business travellers thanks to its proximity to Gare de Lyon. Despite the area’s notable history, the
11th arrondissement bears little scars of the revolutionary action that took place here. Perhaps not surprising given that the infamous “Storming of the Bastille” in 1789 destroyed the prison that once stood here. Place de la Bastille now marks the spot, with the towering Colonne de Juillet at its centre commemorating the subsequent 1830 revolution (the basis of Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables); this year will see the opening of the lower part of the column to visitors. The main square doubles as one of the city’s
busiest roundabouts, characterised by mass demonstrations (a nod to its revolutionary past, and meeting point for the gilets jaunes) and heaving traffic. Currently occupied by roadworks, the square is set to welcome a continuous bike path to the Place de l’Etoile in December. While the area has
an impressive historical legacy, its appearance isn’t quite so dazzling. Bastille is hardly a pretty sight, its contemporary architecture and concrete design at odds with the city’s traditional Haussmann buildings. This is most apparent when comparing Paris’s two opera houses. Opéra Bastille, the larger of the two, is a postmodern building located at the intersection of the roundabout, paling in comparison with the majestic Palais Garnier in the ninth arrondissement. Still, the Opéra Bastille has other star qualities,
including its success in reaching a younger, more working-class crowd. This year marks the building’s 30th anniversary, and there are plans to build a new foyer, an 800-seat rehearsal and performance space, and workshop facilities, scheduled to be completed in 2023. Bastille has also become the city’s urban
playground, incorporating nature into its more brutalist design. The area’s elevated park, known both as the Promenade Plantée and Coulée Verte René-Dumont, was crafted from a disused 19th-century railway viaduct, beneath which lies a string of artist studios and boutiques. The inspiration for New York’s High Line, it is set to open a larger section next year. BT
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om DE CEMB E R 20 19
FROM TOP: Place de la Bastille; Septime; Promenade Plantée
WHERE TO EAT: Septime is one of the city’s most in- demand restaurants, offering inventive cuisine with a waiting list worth signing up to.
septime-charonne.fr WHERE TO DRINK: If there’s no room at the restaurant, head instead to Septime La Cave, its rustic bar offering small plates and wine pairings.
septime-lacave.fr WHAT TO SEE: The Marché d’Aligre, also called the Marché Beauvau, takes place six days a week (closed Mondays). Located between the Place de la Bastille and Place de la Nation, it comprises both a covered market and outdoor stalls and is a paradise for foodies and antique hunters.
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PARIS TOURIST OFFICE/STUDIO TTG/SARAH SARGENT
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