PARIS TOURIST OFFICE/JACQUES LEBAR/SARAH SARGENT
the grittier arrondissements with arguably more character than the affluent picture-perfect centre of the city. Off the beaten track, these former working-
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class areas provide respite from the tourist- packed banks of the Seine. Becoming more gentrified by the day, the neighbourhoods have recently acquired a reputation as “Bobo” (bourgeois bohemian), a product of their burgeoning café and arts scenes. With this, however, has come rising house prices and the danger that such quarters will become uniform – a source of anxiety for residents. Here’s our guide to three up-and-coming areas worth exploring if you have spare time on a trip.
CANAL SAINT-MARTIN Located in the tenth arrondissement in eastern Paris, this canalside neighbourhood is one of the city’s liveliest. Stretching over 4.5km, the canal links the Port de l’Arsenal with La Villette and was originally used as an artificial waterway to transport fresh water and goods to Paris in an attempt to reduce cholera and other epidemics. The area has since swapped its practical
purpose for a more social one, acting as the rendezvous point for picnics, apéro hour and Canauxrama cruises along the canal. It’s located within the Paris Respire zone, meaning cars are forbidden on Sundays and bank holidays from
he City of Light is justifiably regarded as one of the most beautiful capitals in the world, instantly recognisable for its Haussmann buildings and grand boulevards peppered with chic boutiques, brasseries and boulangeries. What most travellers miss, however, are
MAIN PICTURE: Venetian-style bridges across Canal Saint-Martin ABOVE: Place de la République
10am until 6pm, extending to 8pm in summer. Canal Saint-Martin isn’t typically Parisian,
boasting more of a shabby-chic aesthetic than pristine grandeur – street art covers every corner, while protesters often use the canal as their (rather picturesque) route to the final staging area at Place de la République; it’s likely you’ll spot the gilets jaunes demonstrations against the government’s tax and social policies. Throw together London’s Shoreditch and a splash of Amsterdam’s quaint canal setting and you’ll get the idea. Repurposed warehouses have been given a new lease of life as stylish restaurants, bars and venues, while the canal’s banks and Venetian-style footbridges have been immortalised in films such as Amélie. The area’s social reputation sadly made it a
target of the November 2015 terror attacks, with diners killed while sitting outside Le Carillon and Le Petit Cambodge. Residents hit back, continuing to frequent the very spots that were affected, and the slogan “Je suis en terrasse” began trending on Twitter in the aſtermath.
Within walking
WHERE TO EAT IN CANAL SAINT-MARTIN: La Marine is an all-day café and bistro with classic French cuisine at reasonable prices – a two-course lunch costs €18 (US$20). Inside you’ll find art deco fixtures, while the heated terrace on the quayside is a prime spot for people-watching, facing the canal’s swing bridge.
lamarinecanalsaintmartin.com WHERE TO DRINK: Comptoir Général (pictured left) is the area’s most popular venue, a word-of-mouth spot set back from the canal – the only giveaway being the queues stretching down the quay on a Friday and Saturday night. Recently refurbished, the all-day Franco-African bar is an eclectic mix of vintage furnishings, vines crawling along distressed walls and an outdoor space flanked by hydrangeas.
lecomptoirgeneral.com WHAT TO SEE: Canalside arts centre Point Ephémère is located in a former fire station and holds exhibitions, concerts and workshops.
pointephemere.org
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distance of both Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, Canal Saint-Martin has great transport links to the rest of the city and makes for a pleasant stroll if you have some time before your Eurostar departure. If you can’t quite switch off, you could visit one of the canal’s co-working cafés, Paris’s practical solution to small properties. Here, you either pay by the hour, or spend the same amount on food and coffee.
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