SUNGLASSES REPORT
to access products via the website, while those looking for Porsche Design online at Guangzhou Airport access through a WeChat embed,” says Eckhardt-Koestler. “Items that are purchased can be paid for online and are then picked up at the airport.” TRBusiness asked how much
support suppliers are receiving from their retail partners at a time of biting stock management issues and fulfilment (or lack thereof). Most of the respondents,
perhaps unsurprisingly, were short and diplomatic – that all sides are suffering and trying to support one another. Others were more frank. “Most of retailers have been
focused to protect their own business, P&L and cash flow, which is understandable, but it looks like many of them have forgotten that we are being negatively impacted too, even if we are not a B2C business,” observes Voltan. “Hopefully we will have mutual
support, in order to begin the recovery phase and resume our businesses.” Indeed, every stakeholder in
DF&TR is fighting to stay solvent by being creative and it certainly appears that retailers are exploring new ways of driving revenues alongside suppliers. “The retailers are looking into
creative and innovative solutions with the aim of capturing sales,” says Voltan. “It’s really encouraging to notice their interest and effort in expanding or reinforcing their online offer while their shops are still closed. At Marcolin Group, we
have been developing digital tools and assets to be able to support digital transformation and their [retailers’] needs.” The ubiquity of video conferencing
tools has been one small positive to emerge from an otherwise dire situation. While most in travel retail would agree such tools have proven indispensable, it is arguable that when it comes to the ritual of selling, little beats face-to-face customer engagement. The experience of trying on new
frames massages the lifestyle and fashion choices of consumers and their related propensity to spend. Matched with shrewd guidance from customer advisors, physical demonstrations instruct the sunglass sale in a way online alternatives cannot. But times have – and are – changing.
New consumer research According to research conducted by m1nd-set in April among 1,500 international travellers taking trips in the past six months, 51% of people would refrain from unnecessarily touching products and 45% from testing products in duty free in the first six months when travel recommences. TRBusiness took the opportunity
to ask suppliers how big a challenge this represents to their sales and how they are addressing this. “Sunglasses should be tested
and tried on in the shop,” states Silbermayr. “Proper disinfection will help. We are running in some test locations with ultrasonic cleanser – not cost intensive at all.”
Marcolin capitalises on sales uptick in China
While acknowledging the extremely challenging situation posed by the coronavirus (Covid-19) to the sunglasses travel retail business, Marcolin Group’s Head of Travel Retail & Online Alessia Voltan reports some ‘minor but promising’ signs of recovery in certain areas of the business . “The best results come from China. In
April and May, sales in [CDFG] Haitang Bay for brands in the luxury segment such as Tom Ford and Moncler have exceeded the sales in the same period
JULY 2020
last year,” she says. “All categories have been heavily affected by Covid-19. At Marcolin Group, we are looking into both short and medium-term strategies. “For the immediate, we are working
on tools to help drive sales such as promotions, staff incentives, marketing activations, and remote staff training to be activated with our clients as soon as their stores will reopen. “Looking at 2021, we are working on
some capsule collections exclusively dedicated to travellers.”
TRBUSINESS 41
“We believe that the experience of fitting sunglasses is very important and useful. Marcolin Group researched and tested different processes that would meet the CDC guidelines and properly sanitise the eyewear without damaging any of the frames or lens material.”
Alessia Voltan, Head of Travel Retail & Online, Marcolin Group
A sunglasses source who TRBusiness is choosing not to name points to the development of devices used to disinfect frames using UVC light. These small, enclosed units are reportedly similar in size to an Apple iPhone and close to protect the user from any harmful light. “As long as sunglasses areas
in duty free shops provide hand sanitiser and are properly staffed, the frames can be tried on and then disinfected immediately if they’re not purchased,” explains the source. “The (m1nd-set) research shows
that customers would initially be reticent [to test products] but I think that would naturally wear off quite quickly. I feel that if customers are passing through the shop and see stringent hygiene is being observed, they will become more inclined to shop the frames.” Voltan says: “We do understand
that it is quite challenging for people to fit eyewear in this period, as the concern of the virus is still high.
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