Head to timeless Tarn to discover three ‘real France’ hotspots
The towns of Rabastens, Gaillac and Lisle-sur-Tarn are Nicola Venning’s pick of Tarn’s property-hunting gems
T
he delightful towns that bask along the banks of the River Tarn in southwest
France are characterful gems offering an authentic Gallic way of life, where you will happily struggle to hear an English voice. Sun-drenched ancient quartiers are surrounded by rolling countryside and lush vineyards, and the history of the area is everywhere. There are magnificent red- brick, period houses, austere cathedrals and churches, and fortified bastides often bizarrely perched on hilltops, all of which are the result of the medieval Albigensian (Catholic) Crusade against the upstart Counts of Toulouse and their rebellious Cathar followers. The Renaissance also left its
mark, as Tarn flourished during this period and became very prosperous, trading the highly prized blue pastel or woad. Albi, the regional capital, is a glorious mix of lavish merchant houses, impressive palaces and opulent abbeys. Rabastens, Lisle-sur-Tarn
and Gaillac are, to a greater or lesser degree, pretty – if much smaller – images of this magnificent city, but just as popular as they are all roughly a 30/40-minute drive along the A68 from Toulouse and its international airport. “They are in one of the
more expensive areas, in really good locations and very attractive,” says Laura Croxford, a negotiator with Beaux Villages estate agency, which has offices throughout France. All three towns also have their own train stations with a direct service to and from Toulouse, which is helpful
Red-brick buildings and arcades surround the Place du Griffoul market, Gaillac
if you just want to jump on a train from the airport and don’t want to be car-dependent. However, this has also meant
that homes in the area appeal to both the French who commute to La Ville Rose (Toulouse) as well as British second-home buyers, and demand is robust. Agents report that it has
become much harder to find properties now – particularly since the pandemic when working practices altered and more people moved into the countryside, mixing
commuting with working remotely from home. “The market in France has
changed rather. It used to be led by buyers, but now it is much more of a seller’s market. We are having to throw away the rule book and start again, certainly when estimating the price of properties,” says Laura. Although some buyers spend
up to €2m, most of Laura’s customers, who are equally made up of both French and British, spend an average of €400,000–€500,000 for a main
One of the best views of Gaillac is from its stone bridge looking back into the historic centre
or second home. This sum buys, roughly, a three/four- bedroom farmhouse with pool and a generous, half-acre or more, garden. “The French love the houses
that have been renovated by the British who come over with much more money, will generally employ artisans to do the work and who are not counting the pennies as much. Many of the French buyers consider that the British have renovated them very nicely indeed,” says Laura. The homes available range
from elegant maisons de maître and similar maisons bourgeoise, to traditional Toulouse-style tall red-brick townhouses, as well as rambling farmhouses and white-stone maisons vigneronnes or winemakers’ homes and estates. Unfortunately, the days
Gaillac’s vineyards, which are among France’s oldest, can be explored by bike 40 FRENCH PROPERTY NEWS: March/April 2023
when you could bag a bargain are long gone and there are not many ‘rescue and renovate’ projects to be found. However, you can still pick up smaller houses and modern bungalows with a reasonable-sized garden on the outskirts of these towns and they start from roughly
©SHUTTERSTOCK
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