I t ’ s l i k e a m a g i c t r i c k :


when the first drop of chilled water hits the transparent spirit, it turns an opaque pale yellow and a heady plume of aniseed aroma rises from the glass. Under an azure sky, with a row of palm trees in view, I gaze out to the sparkling Mediterranean and sip the drink that encapsulates Provence. Its name says it all: the old Provençal word for ‘mixture’, pastis draws its flavours from the region’s arid landscape and its melting pot of cultures. Aniseed is a flavour found across the Med; in Greece,


it’s ouzo; Italy has sambuca; in Turkey it’s raki. All are usually knocked back as a shot after a meal. Yet the ritual associated with pastis makes it stand out. This sweet aniseed spirit simultaneously awakens your senses and relaxes your mind; it’s an aperitif to sip after spending languid afternoons in golden-stone villages or on the beach. Traditionally, the drink is associated with sleepy French


village squares, and bars selling just one or two brands: Ricard or Pernod. Yet, thanks to a burgeoning movement driven by artisanal distillers, drinkers are discovering a new generation of pastis made with a wide range of botanicals for more rounded, flavoursome drinks. I’m bound for the island of Bendor, off the coast of


Bandol near Marseille. There, I’ll meet the grandson of Paul Ricard, the man who put pastis on the map. Ricard made the 45%-alcohol drink the tipple of choice among the Marseillais. However, the origins of its popularity lie with another aniseed-based libation: absinthe. In the 1860s, France’s vineyards were ravaged by the


phylloxera bug. With the wine trade in peril, people turned instead to the ‘green fairy’. Because absinthe is so much stronger than wine or beer, this development resulted in widespread alcoholism and nefariousness. The drink was banned in most countries worldwide, but by this time the masses had developed a penchant for aniseed-based spirits.


The main producer of absinthe, Pernod Fils, switched to distilling aniseed to create an aniseed liqueur in Pontarlier, eastern France, and later in Avignon. Meanwhile in Provence, the rustic way to create a similar drink, pastis, was to macerate herbs in alcohol. Pastis had long been around, it had just never had a brand or a champion. Cue Paul Ricard. I step off the tiny ferry and find shade from the scorching


sun inside a small exhibition of Ricard memorabilia close to the quay. There I’m joined by Ricard’s grandson, Francois-Xavier Diaz. It’s a small room, but the collection is astounding; hundreds of objects emblazoned with the navy, white and yellow Ricard logo, designed by the man himself. “My grandfather was the son of wine merchants,”


Francois-Xavier tells me. “He wanted to be an artist, but his father insisted he join the family business, so he learned all the different roles and really got to know the culture.” After being introduced to pastis by a local shepherd,


Ricard began experimenting with his own concoction. “He would take his versions around the bars and they’d tell him if it was too strong, too sweet,” says Francois-Xavier. “By the time the ban on aniseed-based drinks was lifted in 1932 [absinthe would remain illegal in France for 80 more years], he had perfected his pastis blend and the market was ready. “Another ban came during World War II, but when that


was lifted, Pernod launched its own: Pastis 51. The two brands became archrivals until 1975, when the companies merged and became Pernod Ricard.” The memorabilia collection really showcases Ricard’s


talent for branding. When direct advertising of aniseed drinks was banned in 1951, material sent to distributors was exempt. This led to the creation of a huge array of items emblazoned with the logo, from ashtrays and coasters to posters; the most successful among them were the water jugs that still exist in their thousands and are found in


Opposite, clockwise from top left: Île de Bendor; flowers in Neptune’s Garden on Île de Bendor; the museum of wine and spirits on Île de Bendor


Above: Enjoying a Mauresque — a pastis with Orgeat (almond syrup) — on Île de Bendor


Previous spread, from left: A hand- painted shop sign in Forcalquier; aniseed and liquorice, the two main ingredients in pastis


THIS IS A SAMPLE EDITION. PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUBSCRIBE AND READ MORE. . .


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26