IMAGES: SCOTT SUCHMAN; HELEN CATHCART


Oysters were abundant in 19th-century America, eaten in refectories and at street stalls along the coast. New York City, at that time home to some of the East Coast’s richest oyster beds, was considered the oyster-eating capital — and it was here that African American oysterman Thomas Downing built a reputation as a leading restaurateur. He’s also the inspiration for this take on the city’s iconic creamy oyster stew. While Blue Point oysters are recommended, jumbo Pacific oysters are a good alternative in the UK.


Thomas Downing’s NYC oyster pan roast by Albert G Lukas SERVES: 6 TAKES: 1 HR


INGREDIENTS 36 fresh oysters, preferably Blue Point 50g unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 shallot, finely diced 80ml white wine, preferably chablis 3 tbsp chilli sauce 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 240ml heavy cream 6-inch baguette, sliced into 12 half-inch-thick rounds ¼ tsp Tabasco sauce


METHOD Shuck the oysters, being careful


to reserve the liquor. Put the oysters in a medium bowl. Strain the liquor


through a fine-mesh strainer into a measuring jug: you should have around 240ml liquor. Heat oven to 190C, 170C fan, gas 5.


Heat 15g of the butter in a stainless steel saucepan set over a gentle heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender and translucent, around 2-3 mins, being careful not to let it brown. Add the white wine and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half. Once reduced, add the oyster


liquor, return to a simmer and cook for an additional minute. Pour in the chilli sauce, Worcestershire sauce and heavy cream and simmer for 2 mins more until the volume is again reduced by half. Meanwhile, start on the baguette


crisps. Brush both sides of the baguette slices with 20g of the


butter, then arrange on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden-brown, around 3 mins. After the cream has reduced and


slightly thickened, add the oysters. Poach them over a gentle simmer for no longer than 2 mins, taking care not to overcook them. They should appear slightly ruffled and lightly plumped. Season with the Tabasco sauce and


the remaining butter. Mix well until fully incorporated. Divide the oysters evenly among six bowls, ladle over the chilli cream and serve with the baguette crisps.


Taken from Sweet Home Cafe Cookbook by the National Museum of African American History & Culture (£26, Smithsonian Books)


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