HIDDEN TROPICS


El Hierro, Canary Islands In the far south west of the Canary Islands’ archipelago, El Hierro feels worlds away from the resort-cluttered coasts of its more famous neighbours. Its commitment to conservation is reflected in the fact that the entire island is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, and its dramatic volcanic interior is best explored on foot. Weave between wind-warped juniper trees, cool off in lava-formed rockpools and climb to Malpaso for sweeping views across the Atlantic to sister islands. Offshore, the marine reserve at La Restinga


Clockwise from top left: The waters off Champagne Beach in Dominica offer the chance to snorkel alongside hawksbill turtles in naturally ‘sparkling’ water; El Hierro’s dramatic landscapes range from volcanic cliffs to lush forests; Ekasup Cultural Village on Efate immerses visitors in Vanuatu’s traditions, showcasing local dances, crafts and village life


is one of Europe’s premier dive sites, where volcanic seabeds, underwater arches and crystal- clear waters attract rays, turtles and shoals of barracuda. El Hierro is also a refuge for the El Hierro giant lizard, a critically endangered species with a long, sinuous tail and glossy scales. Spot some at the Lagarto Gigante Recovery Centre in La Frontera, where tours detail the island’s conservation efforts. The same volcanic soils that sustain this fragile


wildlife also shape El Hierro’s distinctive wines and cheeses. In the evenings, sample smoky queso ahumado and bold red vintages at Tanajara Winery, one of Europe’s most southwesterly vineyards. And after sunset, don’t forget to look up — El Hierro’s skies are made for stargazing. WHEN TO GO: Visit in spring or autumn for quiet trails and mild weather.


Jeju Island, South Korea The South Korean island of Jeju serves up a full four seasons of natural beauty in film-like fashion — snow-capped peaks in winter, king cherry blossoms in spring, sun-soaked beaches in summer and a blaze of fiery foliage across its volcanic peaks in autumn. The best way to explore it is on the Jeju Olle Trail, a 270-mile network of over 20 connected hiking routes, modelled on the famous Camino de Santiago. Following much of the coastline, the trail threads through Hallasan National Park — home to South Korea’s tallest peak — and the ancient lava woodlands of Gotjawal Forest. Base yourself in one of the island’s two main


cities — the smaller, greener city of Seogwipo in the south, or the capital, Jeju, in the north. In the latter, visitors can feast on seafood specialities gathered by the island’s Haenyeo (‘sea women’). Added to Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, these female free-divers — many in their seventies and eighties — spend hours collecting shellfish for use in local restaurants. Their extraordinary skill and endurance have been passed down through generations, while their work continues to shape Jeju’s matriarchal traditions and coastal cuisine. WHEN TO GO: Visit in late March to early April to see the Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival. Shoulder seasons of spring and autumn offer the best conditions for hiking.


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – ISLANDS COLLECTION 9


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