IMAGES: BERKOK YÜKSEL; ©GUNTÛ


JAPAN


Stone lanterns lead us to a camphor grove that


shelters Ōyamazumi Shrine, a historic Shinto complex hidden deep in the forest. The courtyard lies in shade, anchored by a vast camphor tree at its centre. Around 2,600 years old, its limbs are wrapped in braided ropes, with shide papers hanging in careful folds, quietly declaring the site’s sacred status. Beneath it, two priests in white robes and turquoise hakama (trousers) move with unhurried precision, sweeping leaves from the stone steps that rise towards the shrine. Standing at its centre, calm settles over me,


a palpable counterpoint to the treacherous whirlpools and unpredictable currents offshore. The shrine is famed across Japan for its collection of ancient samurai offerings, from armour to weapons, and it’s easy to picture the Murakami pirates here centuries ago, offering prayers for a safe passage across the waters we’ve just crossed. But the stillness is fleeting. Soon, we’re back on


Clockwise from top left: Guntû follows multiple routes through the Seto Inland Sea to work with tidal conditions rather than against them; Ōyamazumi Shrine is more than 1,000 years old and houses Japan’s largest collection of samurai swords; the onsen- style baths on Guntû are designed as viewing spaces as much as places to bathe


the boat, engines straining as we edge once more into open water. Our captain expertly adjusts the throttle to hold position beside a slowly forming whirlpool, clearly knowing every contour of the seabed by heart. Still, the thrill lingers. It’s difficult to fathom how 16th-century sailors, navigating wooden vessels, dared to cross these channels at all, with tidal differences reaching up to four metres in a single day. We circle the most volatile points, where


opposing streams visibly collide, before approaching Naoshima Island, which served as a Murakami stronghold for more than two centuries. Rising in layered tiers above the bay, it once functioned as a pirate fortress — not of stone walls, but towering tents, with the clan leader’s residence at the highest level. From this vantage point, with natural defences above and


treacherous tides below, I understand how the kaizoku maintained control — not merely as raiders, but as guardians of the region’s sea routes. Back aboard Guntû, the energy shift is


immediate. The sea is calm again; hills drift past as they did at sunrise and I settle onto a lounger on the forward terrace, a glass of junmai sake in hand. Inside, the sushi chef continues his choreography, slicing sashimi with the same precision I watched that first afternoon, the steady rhythm of the blade echoing the lapping of the waves outside. Wherever I am onboard, I remain a spectator of


the sea: at the sushi counter, in the library, in the onsen-style baths where green citrus fruits bob beside me in the steam. Each of the ship’s 17 cabins has floor-to-ceiling windows framing the panorama beyond. On the top deck, an open-air engawa terrace (a traditional Japanese verandah) is strewn with mats and low stools for watching the islands slide past in a slow procession of green silhouettes. Unlike vast ocean cruises that draw guests inward


with constant activity, Guntû does the opposite. It gently pushes you outward — to watch, to listen, to connect with the seascape. As dusk settles and the sea darkens, I find myself wondering if the Murakami kaizoku once paused to take in this view, letting the water still before venturing back into the currents. Different vessels, different centuries — yet the same sea, carrying all of us quietly onward.


HOW TO DO IT: Guntû sails two- and three-night voyages across more than half a dozen routes. Choose the Central Route for pirate islands and tidal-whirlpool excursions. All-inclusive cabins across five suite catagories start from ¥1.1m (£5,180). To get there, fly to Hiroshima or take the Shinkansen train to Fukuyama. Complimentary transfers run from both airports to Bella Vista Marina, where the ship departs. guntu.jp


THR EE MOR E ISLAND ADVENTURES 1


Cycle the Shimanami Kaido One rewarding way to explore Setouchi is by


bicycle, pedalling Japan’s most celebrated cycling route, the Shimanami Kaido. Stretching 45 miles from Onomichi to Imabari, the trail threads across six islands, linking bridges and quiet coastal roads with expansive views over the Inland Sea. The route is largely accessible, with dedicated cycle lanes and clear signage, and bikes can be rented and returned at terminals spaced along the route.


2


Island-hop the Ryukyus For a subtropical contrast to Setouchi, head


south to the Ryukyu Islands, a chain of more than 50 islands stretching between Kyushu and Taiwan. Okinawa, the most developed hub, is best known for its historic castle ruins, vibrant food scene and deep-rooted Ryukyuan traditions. Beyond it, smaller islands offer a quieter pace — from the sugar-white beaches of Miyako to the jungle-clad hills and reefs of Ishigaki.


3


Explore the volcanic Izu Islands Rising from the Pacific just south of Tokyo,


the Izu Islands promise a wilder kind of island escape. Spread across nine volcanic islands, the archipelago is shaped by lava flows, rugged cliffs and black-sand beaches. Travel between Ōshima, Hachijōjima and Miyakejima for hikes over active volcanic terrain, ocean-view onsens and winter- blooming camellia gardens. It’s a raw contrast to Japan’s refined coastal resorts.


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – ISLANDS COLLECTION 39


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132  |  Page 133  |  Page 134  |  Page 135  |  Page 136  |  Page 137  |  Page 138  |  Page 139  |  Page 140  |  Page 141  |  Page 142  |  Page 143  |  Page 144  |  Page 145  |  Page 146  |  Page 147  |  Page 148  |  Page 149  |  Page 150  |  Page 151  |  Page 152  |  Page 153  |  Page 154  |  Page 155  |  Page 156  |  Page 157  |  Page 158  |  Page 159  |  Page 160  |  Page 161  |  Page 162  |  Page 163  |  Page 164  |  Page 165  |  Page 166  |  Page 167  |  Page 168  |  Page 169  |  Page 170  |  Page 171  |  Page 172  |  Page 173  |  Page 174  |  Page 175  |  Page 176  |  Page 177  |  Page 178  |  Page 179  |  Page 180  |  Page 181  |  Page 182  |  Page 183  |  Page 184  |  Page 185  |  Page 186  |  Page 187  |  Page 188  |  Page 189  |  Page 190  |  Page 191  |  Page 192  |  Page 193  |  Page 194  |  Page 195  |  Page 196