IMAGES: ALAMY; BLACK DOG DELI; CHRISTIAN HEEB/LAIF/REDUX; NORIKO HAYASHI/THE NEW YORK TIMES; REBECCA HALE; GETTY


PLAN A FOODIE WEEKEND ON THE SUFFOLK COAST


A SCENIC SEASIDE BREAK FEATURES LOCAL OYSTERS, SMOKED FISH AND THE CHANCE TO MAKE YOUR OWN GIN. WORDS: CLAIRE BOOBBYER


Candy-coloured beach huts, smart bakeries and shrieking gulls — you’ll find all of these along Suffolk’s coast. It’s a scenic stretch, where estuaries slink to the sea through marshes and reeds — havens for birds, otters and seals. There’s plenty to sustain its human visitors, too, with local ingredients produced by the sandy soils and seaweed-rich shores.


BUTLEY ORFORD OYSTERAGE On a bend on the Butley River, Bill Pinney cultivates Pacific oysters in a ‘fattening creek’, while cod roe, trout, mackerel and Wester Ross salmon are smoked in his oak-log-fired smokehouse. Two miles away, at the family’s restaurant in Orford, the plump oysters are served up alongside a vast array of seafood.


THE CANTEEN, SOUTHWOLD This restaurant is part of a community project set in the former Southwold Hospital. It celebrates farm-fresh global flavours at affordable prices with weekly changing menus. Once a month, invited chefs cook a pay-what-you-can Sunday lunch.


THE UNRULY PIG, WOODBRIDGE The success of The Unruly Pig, set in a timber- framed Regency building, is testament to owner Brendan Padfield’s commitment to good food with big-hitting flavours, with a menu serving what he calls ‘Britalian’ food. Plates include veal sweetbreads slathered in herby lardo di Colonnata, and a custard tart served with raspberry sorbet. READ MORE ONLINE


| H I S T O R Y |


See Spain’s fabled Alhambra as few have ever before This remarkable fortress is considered the crowning glory of Muslim rule on the Iberian Peninsula. We were given behind- the-scenes access to its darkest recesses. natgeo.com/history


| S C I E N C E |


How Covid attacks your heart Scientists have found Covid-19 can trigger serious cardiovascular problems, especially among older people who have a buildup of fatty material in their blood vessels. A new study has revealed why. natgeo.com/science


| E N V I R O N M E N T | VISIT NATGEO.COM/TRAVEL FOR NEW TRAVEL FEATURES DAILY


Hurricanes are escalating more quickly than ever. Here’s why Rapidly intensifying weather patterns are significantly more common than they were 40 years ago and they’re still hard to predict early enough to prepare. natgeo.com/environment


BEYOND THE TRAVEL SECTION


SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK


INSTAGRAM BELIZE


Mayan cave tourism Hundreds of caves served as portals to a Mayan underworld, full of extraordinary relics.


DISASTER RECOVERY


Can tourism help? Natural disasters have made headlines in 2023 — here’s how tourism can have a positive impact.


TRUFFLE HUNTING


How dogs sniff out black gold At a secret location in Hampshire, two women, one man and one dog go in search of a local delicacy.


JAN/FEB 2024 47


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