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IMAGES: HIGHLAND BASE – KERLINGARFJÖLL; TRAVEL TWO


From top: The Woodman’s Hut in Cairngorms National Park; a cosy lodge at Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll


2 COSY UP IN A SCOTTISH HUT Fantasies of remote living can be indulged


in the Woodman’s Hut — an off-grid timber cabin for two, deep in a forest of Scots pine just outside Aviemore in the Cairngorms. Blonde wood interiors come adorned with a wood- burning stove, Persian rugs and a smattering of books to read by the light of Moroccan lanterns. What the Caledonian foresters of old would make of hot tubs and infra-red saunas is somewhat unclear. Nonetheless, such luxuries are available to guests — both perfect places to recuperate in after chilly hours pacing the foothills of the Cairngorms. Three nights from £504. lazyduck.co.uk


3 CAMP OUT IN A LAVVU A lavvu is ostensibly a kind of tent, but


it’s also a key to understanding the Sámi — Europe’s only Indigenous people. Sámi have used these temporary structures for centuries while on reindeer-herding journeys — lavvu have featured on flags, served as symbols of Sámi resistance and even inspired permanent bricks-and-mortar buildings. Sápmi Nature offers the chance to stay in one such lavvu in Swedish Lapland. Admittedly, modern double beds have replaced animal skins surrounding the smouldering hearths found in traditional tents — but by spending a night inside you can get a tiny taste of nomadic life up on the roof of the world, dozing off to the sound of the Arctic wind rustling the canvas. Two nights from £880. sapminature.com


4 RETREAT TO THE HILLS Bird How is a National Trust cottage set


amid the fells of Eskdale, on the western side of the English Lake District. From the outside, it’s the sort of stoic Cumbrian dwelling that recalls Uncle Monty’s house in Withnail and I — inside, it has all the modern accoutrements to keep its two guests comfy through chilly days. Little windows provide views of dry-stone walls, chuntering Land Rovers and rain-sogged sheep. Should the Lakeland sun emerge, you’re well placed for an expedition up one of England’s steepest roads, Hardknott Pass, which winds directly past the front door. Four nights from £482. nationaltrust.org.uk


5 SLEEP BY THE RAILS Coed y Bleiddiau is a Victorian cottage


whose name translates as ‘the wood of the wolves’. Admittedly, a wolf howl hasn’t been heard in this part of Wales since the Middle Ages, but another sound has since taken its place — the shrill whistle of passing trains. This Landmark Trust property, sleeping four, stands right next to the Ffestiniog Railway — the cottage was built for the railway’s superintendent and has its own private halt (small station). It comes into its own in the winter — guests can arrive here on a seasonal steam train, hunkering down by the cottage’s fireside as snowfall graces the surrounding summits of Eyri (formerly Snowdonia). Four nights from £504. landmarktrust.org.uk


JAN/FEB 2024 165


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