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MONTREAL


View of Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral Clockwise from right: Annex Vintage in edgy Mile End; lobster spaghetti at Joe Beef; a building typical of the Plateau


neighbourhood; homewares at Annex Vintage


SLEEP £ M MONTREAL HOSTEL: With easy access


to the Quartier des Spectacles festival district and the old port, this place has apartment- style set-ups with kitchenettes, so you can easily whip up a storm using produce from Jean-Talon Market. There’s free ping pong, pool and video games too, and a free pasta night every Wednesday. m-montreal.com £ £ HÔTEL WILLIAM GRAY: In the retro locale of Old Montreal but with a distinctly contemporary sensibility, this boutique stay really shines in summer when its roof terrace opens up, with views over the dome of Marché Bonsecours. There’s a spa to revive weary limbs after a day exploring, offering massages using quartz crystals. hotelwilliamgray.com £ £ £ FAIRMONT THE QUEEN


ELIZABETH: Next to Montreal’s central railway station, this grand historic hotel has always prided itself on setting the standard for luxury in the city. That’s not to say it’s fusty: recently renovated rooms come with a contemporary colour palette and bursts of kaleidoscopic art. There’s also a sizeable indoor pool and several restaurants and bars, including bistro-style Rosélys. fairmont.com


148 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL


EAT £ BEAUTYS LUNCHEONETTE: Montreal’s most famous diner opened in 1942 and hasn’t changed much since. Order the Beautys Special, a sesame bagel with lox (brined salmon), cream cheese, tomato and red onion, washed down with a cookies-and-cream smoothie. There are no reservations; prepare to queue on weekends (it’s worth it). facebook.com/beautysmtl £ £ JOE BEEF: This cosy, low-lit restaurant


in villagey Little Burgundy is the ultimate expression of Quebec-meets-French decadence. It’s best known for its lobster spaghetti — one of the few dishes that rarely disappears from the chalkboard menu — with other regulars including steak au poivre, Canadian caviar and oysters. joebeef.com £ £ £ MONTRÉAL PLAZA: Named on


Canada’s 100 best restaurants list, Montréal Plaza showcases both seriously interesting wines and a sense of fun in its food — for example, you might just find a plastic dinosaur served with your salad. Pull up a chair at the polished bar next to city high-fliers and tuck into blood pudding with crab bisque or beef tartare with herring and puffed rice. montrealplaza.com


BUY HOLT RENFREW OGILVY: Montreal’s grand dame department store sells designer labels and cult upmarket beauty brands from both Canada and further afield. Wander through its historic and recently renovated halls before taking in the other big-brand shops on the city’s answer to London’s Oxford Street, Saint- Catherine Street. holtrenfrew.com CORAIL BLANC: Supporting small-scale indie Canadian designers — with eco- friendly and women-led businesses given priority — this jewellery shop on St Laurent Boulevard sells everything from modern minimalist rings to elaborate pendant earrings. Afterwards, you can pop into nearby Schwartz’s, one of the city’s most legendary delis, for a sandwich stuffed with smoked meat similar to pastrami. corailblanc.com ANNEX VINTAGE: Showcasing both vintage clothing and new home goods ranging from stationery to skincare, this shop in Mile End encapsulates the area’s cool, artsy character. Whether 1990s fashion is your thing or you’re looking for a new print for your wall at home, you won’t be disappointed with the huge selection on offer. annexvintage.com


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