IMAGE: AWL IMAGES; SABINE BERNERT. ILLUSTRATION: TANYA COOPER
NEW ZEALAND
Q&A Andrew Smart, senior ranger on the biodiversity team of New Zealand’s Department of Conservation
WHAT MAKES FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK SO UNIQUE? At three million acres, it’s New Zealand’s largest national park and, aside from a few roads, it’s been left largely untouched. Fiordland National Park ranges from glaciated valleys and lakes to podocarp forests, sand dunes and mountains.
HIGHLIGHTS CLINTON VALLEY
Set off on the fi rst day through the Clinton Valley, passing beneath cathedral-like beech forests to arrive at a suspension bridge over clear waters. Look for trout and eels below, as well as the endangered whio (blue duck). Rarer than kiwi, its numbers are rebounding after successful conservation eff orts. Arrive at Clinton Hut and indulge in a refreshing dip at one of the swimming holes nearby.
MACKINNON PASS
Rise early on the third day to tackle the challenging zigzag ascent to Mackinnon Pass. Along the way, there’s a cairned memorial to Scottish-born explorer Quintin Mackinnon, who spearheaded the construction of the track over the pass and led tourist groups across it in the late 1800s. Shortly afterwards, you’ll reach the highest point of the Milford Track at 1,154 metres, with a 360-degree view dominated by glaciers and mountain peaks.
SUTHERLAND FALLS
At 580 metres, New Zealand’s highest waterfall is fed by several glaciers that lead into Lake Quill, which spills over and plummets into the
valley over three steps. Stick to the trail, and you’ll be off ered a glimpse of Sutherland Falls, but to get closer and feel her misty breath on your face, there’s an optional 90-minute return hike to the base of the falls where you can enjoy a bracing swim.
GIANT GATE FALLS
With the alpine crossing now behind you, take your time as you amble beside the Arthur River and stop to admire McKay Falls and Lake Ida. Another suspension bridge leads over rocks and across the last waterfall on this track, the spectacular Giant Gate Falls.
MILFORD SOUND
The track comes to an end at the aptly named Sandfl y Point (pack repellent); pre-book a water taxi to meet you and ferry you across the picturesque Milford Sound.
HOW TO DO IT: The Milford Track is a one-way walk and huts must be booked in advance as camping isn’t permitted. To reach the starting point, arrange a bus or private transport from Queenstown to Te Anau Downs, then catch a ferry to Glade Wharf. Links to transport operators, as well as guided hiking packages, can be found at
doc.govt.nz/milfordtrack fiordland.org.nz
WHY IS THE NATIONAL PARK A BIODIVERSITY HOTSPOT? The combination of secluded islands and steep valleys means the topography has provided wildlife with a natural barrier against pests. The sheer scale of the park means there are many places for them to hide, too. We thought the takahÄ“ — a flightless bird — was extinct here but a small population was found in 1948. There could be even more species hiding in the ferns we don’t know about.
HOW IS THE PARK SAFEGUARDING ITS FUTURE? In addition to controlling introduced pests like stoats, rats and possums, we’re supporting some species with breeding programmes. For the endangered whio, we collected eggs from wild nests and our own captive ducks, hand-reared the ducklings and then released them back into the park to help boost the population. We’re training detection dogs to help us monitor bird populations too. Visitors can support our efforts by sharing their bird sightings with DOC hut wardens or their guides.
Above: Milford Sound at sunset Previous pages: Mount Ngauruhoe’s perfect cone is a defining feature of the Tongariro National Park landscape
JAN/FEB 2024 125
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