Montreal is the city equivalent of your cool transatlantic friend. It has the high culture, style and gourmet food of the most elegant corners of France, and the informality, innovation and gregarious warmth of North America. The capital of the French-speaking province of Quebec, and one-time French colony, it is both art galleries and nightclubs, couture and jeans, fine wines and cheese- smothered chips (specifically, the city’s signature poutine, dripping in gravy). Montreal straddles the old and new worlds with an effortless je ne sais quoi rarely seen in big cities, and for that reason, Canadians and international visitors alike find it irresistible. Unlike Toronto, which has classic tick-box sights, or


Vancouver, where life revolves around nature, the joy of a Montreal break lies in its unabashed hedonism — shopping, strolling, bar-hopping and dining. It’s best to come without a specific agenda, so you can let yourself be led by the rhythm of the city and its diverse neighbourhoods. You could soak up the seamless blend of French and North American culture that wafts down the stately Golden Mile; enjoy the buzzy nightlife strip of St Laurent Boulevard; stroll past the colourful historic houses of the Plateau area; and discover rejuvenated industrial Griffintown. There’ll probably be an intriguing boutique, cafe or small gallery to pop into on the way, and if you run thin on ideas, bilingual locals will happily point you somewhere to explore next. This is a city defined by the seasons, too. After the harsh


freeze of winter, when locals cosy up indoors to escape the snow, Montreal bursts forth with renewed joie de vivre in late spring. Not a moment of the precious few summer months is wasted. In the historic old port quarter, dating to the 17th century, al fresco seating entices people to restaurants serving bistro classics. The city’s central park space, Mount Royal, is carpeted with green, its lawns covered with people drawn to the free weekly bohemian gathering Tam-Tams. The city’s busy events calendar hits full throttle in the Quartier des Spectacles, where outdoor plazas are designed to host everything from concerts to comedy and film screenings. Almost around the clock, you can feel this electric city thrum. On that note: whatever else draws you to Montreal, be


prepared to make lively evenings part of your experience. The one thing, it could be argued, that this city does as well as food is nightlife, with bars and clubs having some of the best atmosphere, finest drinks and latest last calls in Canada. It’s perhaps not until you’re settled into an intimate bar, sipping on a cocktail fusing French cognac with Quebec maple syrup, that you can really appreciate Montreal’s dual-natured heart in all its splendour.


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