Day onE1
10.00: Start off in the Piazza dei Signori, the historic seat of power set in the city’s old town, surrounded by portico-fronted palaces and grand Renaissance edifices. It’s surprisingly serene, presided over by a rather pensive-looking statue of medieval poet Dante, who wrote part of his famous Divine Comedy here. He even dedicated it to his patron, Cangrande della Scala, a member of the city’s most influential ruling family in the 14th century. The family’s grand Gothic tomb (also called the Scaligeri Tombs) dominates the scene just a few steps from the square, an elaborate monument to the Della Scala dynasty adorned with wrought iron grilles displaying their ‘ladder’ (scala in Italian) symbol as well as showcasing their wealth and power to the world. Just around the corner, stroll past Casa di Romeo, the low-key medieval home to one
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of the real-life families said to have inspired the Shakespeare tale.
11.00: For anyone keen enough to seek out Romeo’s house, the next step must surely be Juliet’s balcony, just a short walk away. It’s true that this medieval manor house can be traced back to another Verona clan, the Cappellos, hence its link to the story of Juliet. Though before spending too long lining up to see it, visitors should be aware that the famous balcony isn’t original – it was added in the 1930s – while the bronze statue of Juliet is an even more recent addition. Nonetheless, if clients want their moment of romance inside the courtyard (or even on the balcony, for a €6 entry fee), this is the place to have it – especially since the site is looking smarter following a recent council-led clean-up.
12.30: “Verona is not only the town of Romeo and Juliet,” says
our guide, Katia Galvetto, bringing us back to reality. “It’s a town with an interesting history. That’s why Verona is so amazing. You can see its history developing over 2,000 years.” Nowhere is that clearer than in Piazza delle Erbe, once the Roman forum and now the city’s main market square, where even the central fountain of Madonna Verona is a hotchpotch of pieces from different eras. A baroque palace-turned-private art gallery sits at one end of the square, while Renaissance frescoes adorn the walls above awning-covered cafes and noisy market stalls. Browse the wares in the main square, then duck down one of its adjoining side streets for a light bite and an Aperol spritz away from the most touristy venues.
14.30: It’s time to climb the Torre dei Lamberti, the 12th-century clock tower that sits on the edge of the market square offering
commanding views across the terracotta-roofed buildings that make up the city. There’s a lift for the faint-hearted (although beware that it still requires a few steps so may be challenging for those with mobility problems), but if you need to work off that lunchtime pasta, the stairs of this 84m-high monument are better than any workout. Entry is €8 and includes admission to the neighbouring Modern Art Gallery.
15.30: Having spied Verona’s most famous monument from above, it’s time to investigate its Roman Arena a little more closely. Set off from Piazza delle Erbe along the main shopping street, Via Mazzini, to the sprawling square of Piazza Bra, where the striking facade of the first-century amphitheatre can’t fail to impress. It’s older than the Colosseum yet better preserved, and still regularly plays host to operas as well as mainstream music; even in summer 2020, the arena
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