ght lotus
DESTINATIONS INDIA | ASIA
d
eep in Tamil Nadu in the south of India, far from the country’s familiar tourist circuits, sits the
rural region of Chettinad. Once home to large numbers of the influential Nattukottai Chettiars, a global trading community whose wealth flowed in from across southeast Asia, it’s now famed for its thousands of palatial mansions, built by the Chettiars between the 18th and early 20th centuries. At its heart lies Kanadukathan,
whose broad streets boast the highest concentration of these large, courtyard- centred manor houses. Many of the original families have since moved away, but the faded glamour of these magnificent homes – a unique combination of Tamil, art nouveau, art deco and neoclassical architectural styles – gives them a haunting, almost poetic quality. The town and its environs are a dream for photographers, foodies and architecture enthusiasts looking for a quieter, more reflective side of India.
HOME FROM HOME A handful of mansions have been converted into boutique accommodation or homestays, and our hotel, The Lotus Palace, is one of them. Built in the late-17th century and reopened as a 15-room hotel in October 2024, it features ornately carved Burmese teak doors and pillars set around expansive courtyards. A skilful restoration celebrates old and new with historic
features sitting side by side with a luxury spa, bar, pool and lounge area. At the top of the building, the Sunset Terrace offers panoramic views of the surrounding village, while rooms are furnished with antique pieces and custom-made light fixtures. The colour palette of greens, browns and reds is drawn from the traditional Athangudi tiles crafted in this area for centuries. For the Chettiars, these homes indicated status and some are open for guided visits. We step inside several with guide Kavita on a walking tour, which reveals yet more handsome teak, cast iron from England, crystal chandeliers and mirrors from Belgium, tiles from Japan and Germany, marble floors from Italy and many exotic materials imported from around the world.
CULTURE AND CRAFT The mansions aren’t the only examples of fine architecture. The vast Kotravaleeswarar temple in Koviloor dates back more than 1,000 years and is notable for Dravidian architecture, with pyramid-shaped towers known as vimanas, carved pillars and sandstone and stucco embellishments. A huge, stone-lined pool is used for ritual bathing and festival processions. More glimpses of the past are in
store during a wander through nearby Karaikudi antique market, where narrow lanes are lined with carved doors, brass lamps, vintage mirrors and a treasure
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travelweekly.co.uk 19 FEBRUARY 2026 43
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