DESTINATIONS BRAZIL | LATIN AMERICA WHERE TO STAY
Juma Opera Hotel, Manaus This boutique hotel opened in February 2020 opposite the Teatro Amazonas, a few minutes’ walk from the central square of Manaus. It has 41 suites and a small rooftop pool offering panoramic views of the city. The highlight is the restaurant, which serves traditional Amazonian dishes with a modern twist. Specialities include fresh fillet of pirarucu, ceviche of dragon fish and tapioca mille-feuille.
ABOVE: Canoeist in the Amazon FACING PAGE: (clockwise from top left) The ‘Meeting of the Waters’, where the Rio Negro and Amazon River collide; caiman; pink river dolphin; restaurant at Juma Amazon Lodge PICTURES: Shutterstock/Alessandro Zappalorto, Ondrej Prosicky, Coulanges, DroneX
tree trunks, while glow worms, iguanas and tree frogs can also be spotted by the reflection from their eyes in the pitch-dark night. It’s not just the wildlife that
attracts visitors here. Six miles outside Manaus is the ‘Meeting of the Waters’. One of many natural wonders in Brazil, it’s the point where the differently coloured waters of the Rio Negro and Amazon River run side by side with virtually no mixing. The dark torrent of the Rio Negro swirls like vinegar in oil alongside the Amazon’s sandy waters, creating a dramatic dividing line between the two. This amazing spectacle is down to differences in temperature, speed and water density, and it takes a surprising distance of four miles for the swirling currents to merge fully. All these experiences – from glimpsing pink dolphins in the wild
travelweekly.co.uk Land of waterfalls
North of Manaus lies the city of Presidente Figueiredo at the heart of an area known as the ‘land of waterfalls’. The name is well deserved. We took a trip with a local guide and spent the day hiking through the fauna and foliage of the rainforest, spotting wildlife, being guided through caves such as the Maroaga Cavern, and seeing many cachoeiras (waterfalls). The highlight of the day was Cachoeira Iracema. As we approached it, the
trees opened up to reveal a powerful waterfall amid the rocks – a godsend after the humidity of the forest. It didn’t take much to persuade us to get into our swimsuits and cool off under the waterfall. Afterwards, we headed to Parque de Urubui, where you can relax in the shallow waters at the base of Cachoeira Iracema and try local dishes at the many cafes. Restaurant Paulistano is worth a visit; popular with locals too, it serves delicious barbecued fish, meat and salads.
to seeing extraordinary landscapes everywhere you look – bring the debates over global warming and deforestation into sharp focus. Even before the pandemic put tourism-dependent businesses at even greater risk, these were constant threats to the rainforest and to the communities who live here. Lying in my hammock at the end of the day, taking in all the sights and sounds of the rainforest around me, was a clear reminder of just how much there is here to protect.
TWx
Juma Amazon Lodge This sustainable-focused lodge is erected on wooden stilts, designed for the wet season when the water level can rise by 15 metres. There are 19 bungalows, which all include a private veranda and hammock. A buffet-style restaurant serves regional and international cuisine, and guides dine alongside guests at all meals. A small bar is open until 10pm every night.
BOOK IT
Journey Latin America offers a 12-day private holiday, Signature Brazil: Brazil at a Glance, which visits Rio, Iguazú Falls, Salvador and the Amazon. Prices start from £3,670 per person based on two sharing, including all flights, transfers, mid-range hotel on a B&B basis, full board in the Amazon and excursions.
journeylatinamerica.co.uk
Latin Routes has an 11-day itinerary, Brazil Wildlife Discovery, round-trip from Rio de Janeiro. It includes a three-night stay at the Amazon Ecopark Lodge where daily activities include a late-night canoe excursion, a chance to spot river dolphins and other wildlife, and a visit to charitable foundation Monkey Island. Prices from £2,599, plus flights available from £699.
latinroutes.co.uk
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