DESTINATIONS AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA


AGENTS’ VERDICTS


kudu steak and bobotie on the menu – and an early night, we’re ready to set off on our first early-morning game drive. “It’s important to follow the dung,”


Michelle Stammers, The Travel Genius, Sutton Coldfield “Kapama Southern Camp is ideal for honeymooners or those after five- star luxury, while Sefapane River Lodge is a different experience, close to Olifants River and its easy game viewing.”


says head ranger Francois van Rhyn, as we track a white rhino. “The fresher the better. It means you know they are close by.” Minutes later, we turn a corner to find a big male rhino with a stunning horn. He points to the battered branches of leafless trees as a sign of elephants passing through, and spots ‘go away birds’ that sound like they’re telling you to get lost, yellow-billed hornbills (think Zazu from The Lion King), giraffes, impala and a pregnant hyena, which van Rhyn says is the closest he’s got to the scavenger in daylight. There are lodges all over Limpopo,


and next up is Sefapane Lodge (from £113 a night) in the Phalaborwa district, the gateway to Kruger. The pre-breakfast bush walk requires another early start, but the 4.45am wake-up call is worth it to witness herds of buffalo at sunrise. Remember to wrap up warm and


Samantha Briggs, Avista Travel, Clitheroe “At Shishangeni we had amazing views of all the animals, the rangers were fantastic, and drinks under the stars were a real treat. Quad biking at Induna Adventures is a must – it was so much fun riding past watering holes.”


dress in dark green, tan or grey to make yourself less visible to the animals. Rifle-armed rangers lead the walk as the group follows in single file, getting closer to nature than is possible on a 4x4. Guides pause to explain the finer details: why the leaves of the mopane tree are shaped like butterflies; how people used to live off the land; and tribal burial rituals around termite hills. We follow leopard footprints and, despite not finding the elusive big cat on foot, get close to baboons, elephants, zebras and impala – all before breakfast. Sefapane also offers boat trips


LEFT: Kapama Southern Camp


BELOW: Game drive in Limpopo


along the Olifants River, a laid-back experience that allows a better view of elephants in their natural habitat, and of a leopard basking atop a rock in the sun. There are some hefty drives involved in seeing everything Limpopo has to offer, but the views are jaw-dropping, with interesting pit stops along the way. Break the journey with a visit to what’s said to be the largest boab tree in the world – more than 2,000 years old, according to local legend – and for a small donation you can climb up or have a look inside its trunk. It’s a good chance to stretch your legs before settling in for the winding roads of the Magoebaskloof Pass, which offer stunning views en route to Tzaneen.


 MPUMALANGA You might think being in the company of lions was enough of a rush for one trip, but adrenaline junkies who want more can strap in for a scary, though stunning, zipline ride with Canopy Tours in Magoebaskloof (two and a half hours, £33). The network of 11 ziplines straddles waterfalls, cliff edges and a river that flows in two directions.


For a gentler option, head to


Pilgrim’s Rest, which wouldn’t look out of place in the American Wild West. The gold mining town, founded by Alec ‘Wheelbarrow’ Paterson, feels like a journey back in time, with wooden- fronted shops, ‘general dealer’ stores, and the chance to try gold panning. It involves getting your feet wet, but when the sand swirls away to reveal a shiny nugget of gold, it’s worth it. Taking refuge at The Royal Hotel


(from £41 a night) adds to the experience. It dates back more than 140 years and has the decor to match, with standalone bathtubs (no showers) and candles in the rooms “in case of a power cut”. Only 80 people live in Pilgrim’s Rest, so book ahead as this town genuinely isn’t big enough for too many visitors. When clients are ready to move on, the jaw-dropping scenery of the Panorama Route awaits. There’s the aptly-named God’s Window, a perfect selfie spot at a mile above sea level; Bourke’s Luck Potholes, a rock formation with stunning views at the confluence of the Treur and Blyde rivers; and the Lisbon Falls, where four waterfalls – the highest a thundering 95m – flow into one churning pool. While Mpumalanga is a gateway


to Kruger National Park, there are enough alternative activities to


72travelweekly.co.uk14 March 2019


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