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We’ve also been up at the crack


Asian Rivers


of dawn to give alms to the monks (sticky rice, one handful each), taken part in a traditional spirit ceremony and made wishes as we let fire candles float into the night sky. Sabaidee Pandaw was just out of the


Thai shipyard where it was built when I embarked at the end of last year. It accommodates 28 passengers in 14 cabins that open on to the promenade deck, and has a large outdoor lounge and dining area, as well as an indoor lounge bar. It’s one of three Pandaw vessels on the Upper Mekong, where the line has near exclusivity, and cruises sell like hot cakes with those seeking a cultural fix topped up with adventure. The first task, once we set sail, was


to stop at the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet, to get our Laos visas – requiring $35, a passport photo and plenty of patience – and then we were off, ticking off


one experience after another. The highlights included a late-


evening walk to a village market; a visit to a school, where excited kids showed off their work; the Pak Ou Caves, where thousands of Buddha statues reside; the gushing Kuang Si Waterfall; and the golden Pha That Luang stupa in the centre of Vientiane, which has been the capital of Laos since 1560. On a two-night stop in Luang


Prabang, there was time to explore alone between tours to museums, monasteries and an early-morning market selling everything from dried fish and vegetables to live shrimps and bats. Call me picky but after that, I lost my appetite for breakfast back on board… Book it: From £4,049 per person for a 10-night cruise from Chiang Saen to Vientiane departing December 8, including flights, one night in a hotel before the cruise, transfers, tours, local drinks and tips. pandaw.com


Tai chi on board Yangzi Explorer


48travelweekly.co.uk14 March 2019


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