DESTINATIONS AFRICA |BOTSWANA
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Mababe wildlife; private plunge pool and sundowner firepit, both Wilderness Mokete PICTURES: Dana Allen/
photosafari-africa.net; Paige Fiddes
expertexper ASK THE
“I recommend visiting at the end of the dry season, when
you’re most likely to witness the drama of lion versus elephant or buffalo. At night, clients can
roll back the roof and soak in the moonlight; in the afternoon, the sunken photographic hide is a must as wildlife gathers to drink. Mababe isn’t for the faint of heart, so pair it with something softer; Wilderness Little Vumbura Camp offers delta
water safaris and a slower pace.” Andrew van den Broeck
brand manager and safari guide, Yellow Zebra Safaris
TALE OF TWO SEASONS In the dry season, hundreds of elephants and Africa’s largest herd of buffalo – numbering in the thousands – are drawn to Mababe, closely followed by formidable prides of lions. The vast wetlands never completely dry out, even during the hottest months of July to November, providing the only source of water and nutrient-rich grasses for miles around. When I visit in April, after the heaviest rains
in 45 years, water is abundant and wildlife has dispersed around Mababe. In this vast landscape of lush, long grasses, I find it difficult to imagine never-ending buffalo herds traipsing right across this same horizon during dry season, braying incessantly amid the dust, fear and tension in the air. “I’ve seen one pride kill 11 buffalo in a single
hunt,” says my guide, Vasco Tebalo. “People think they want to see a kill and many guests find it fascinating, but I’ve had others in tears saying they didn’t think it would be like this.”
He shows me a video on his phone of five lions
attacking a buffalo amid the chaos and cacophony of the herds: it’s a tough watch. We all know kills are integral to nature’s circle of life, but don’t necessarily want to witness them. Our drive back to camp is thankfully more serene, passing herds of wildebeest, impala and red lechwe antelope grazing peacefully on fresh pastures.
50 10 JULY 2025
SIMPLE PLEASURES
Back at Mokete, the Wilderness camp has a soothing ambience, the decor all natural and neutral tones. It’s simpler in style than the brand’s other properties around southern Africa’s prestigious wild places. “You want guests out in the field – that’s where the magic happens,” Mokete owner Cobus Calitz tells me over a delicious bush lunch. “When you come back, you have a nice camp that’s nothing over the top, but comfortable, open all around and fits into the environment. It all becomes one with nature.” At Mokete, that means an unfussy, solar-powered camp with a light footprint and understated luxury at its core. The nine spacious tented rooms have plunge pools, air conditioning over the beds and ceilings that can slide back to reveal star-studded night skies. The public area is open-plan, light and airy, with a relaxing bar, lounge and dining room serving superb vegetarian meals among meaty options, plus a pool and spa. Clients are looked after by a friendly team, 90% of whom hail from nearby Mababe village. For many of the staff, this is their first experience of working in tourism, and their enthusiasm shines through. The community owns the Mababe Concession, so the village’s 300 residents benefit from Wilderness’s lease fees and contributions. “We ensure that we do responsible tourism and
uplift the community, but we support rather than dictate: they choose their projects, for their benefit,” Cobus
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