DESTINATIONS CRUISE | RHINE
ABOVE: Cologne’s Gothic cathedral PICTURE: Shutterstock/
engel.ac.com
SWEET CITY In Dusseldorf, the coaches were back to take us on to Cologne while Debussy navigated a series of busy locks. When booking a Riverside cruise, shore excursions can either be included in the fare or removed to reduce the cost. The latter option also offers extra independence – particularly for seasoned river cruisers who have ticked off the key sights covered on city tours. There are bikes and hiking poles to borrow for those keen to explore. In Cologne, I was presented with two excursion options: visit a chocolate museum or embark on a city tour. Despite my chocoholic tendencies, I chose the latter, having never visited Cologne and feeling intrigued by its imposing skyline. First, guide Benny showed us to the city’s star attraction, the Unesco-listed 13th-century cathedral, which is visited by up to 20,000 people per day – some of whom pay €8 to clamber 533 steps up one of the enormous, soot-blackened Gothic towers. Diverting my gaze from the soaring spires, Benny pointed to adjacent streets fanning off the city square and told the story of a tank battle that occurred there during the final days of the Second World War. It’s in stark contrast to the jovial atmosphere that surrounded me that spring day, with people drinking petite glasses of the local beer, kölsch. “My uncle always looks disappointed when they bring these small glasses,” Benny mused. “But then as soon as the glass empties, the waiters bring another without asking. They’ll keep bringing them too, unless you put a beer mat on your glass.”
40 10 JULY 2025
33The Moselle was a balm of scenic beauty, where forested hills shelter castles either side of the river
CHANGING PLACES While we got an education in Cologne’s culture and beer mat etiquette, Debussy sailed onwards to meet us in a quiet location in the city. Here, the unusual shallowness of the Rhine was particularly notable. Unable to travel to Basel due to low water levels, the captain opted to change course at Koblenz and cruise down the Moselle instead. I didn’t hear complaints from the guests. In fact,
compared with the busy Rhine, the Moselle was a balm of scenic beauty, where forested hills shelter castles either side of the river. In place of the planned excursions, the Riverside team offered a tour of 900-year-old Eltz Castle, 30 minutes from where we docked in ancient Cochem. Turreted, tall and overlooking the hilly forests from a 70-metre promontory, Eltz is every bit the fairytale castle, with most of it open to the public and some parts still occupied by its aristocratic owners. With generously sized rooms, large windows and breathtaking views, it’s not all that different to life aboard Debussy – although lacking its butlers, more’s the pity.
TW BOOK IT
Riverside Luxury Cruises’ seven-night Romantic Rhine Southbound starts at £3,168 per person, full-board, based on two sharing a Melody Suite and including flights. A Seahorse Suite costs from £5,372 per person all-inclusive, based on two sharing, with flights, plus included drinks and excursions.
riverside-cruises.com
travelweekly.co.uk
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