DESTINATIONS SPAIN & PORTUGAL | CRUISE
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Art of
A stylish sailing from Southampton offers a creative take on cruise, writes Katie McGonagle
etter to be lost here somewhere than on my way to nowhere,’ reads the rather poetic translation of the words on an enormous mural by Lisbon-born
street artist Mário Belém, which we’d paused for a moment to contemplate. Painted during the height of the pandemic, it depicts a
woman sitting amid an oversized plant pot while leaves and flowers spring to life around her, staring up at the word ‘saudade’ – which means ‘yearning’ – capturing everything we felt just a few years ago about longing to get out and experience the world (pictured, overleaf). Apt, then, that it’s one of the highlights of a tuk-tuk tour of Lisbon led by engaging guide Andre Mendes, who whizzed us around the city’s key sights with an insightful commentary along the way.
Having missed out on a planned girls’ weekend to the
Portuguese capital back in 2020, I’d finally made it here on a mother-daughter trip that had turned into a journey of discovery. For me, it was a chance to tick off some of the destinations on my travel wish list, while for my mum – a reluctant flyer – it was a way to test the waters of a cruise holiday, with Celebrity Apex sailing out of Southampton for the sunnier climes of Portugal and the Canary Islands. Andre pointed out more striking murals, from a macabre image of a skeleton smoking a cigarette marking the 150th anniversary of Portugal’s abolition of the death penalty in 1867, to a joyous celebration of traditional fado music (pictured, left) and a futuristic vision of urban life made from
53,000 hand-painted tiles. By which point, I was glad the tiny tuk-tuk engine was doing the work of getting up and down these steep hills, so I could focus on the art. The tour was just the right balance of history and quirky culture, ending at local restaurant Solar dos Bicos for cod croquettes and pasteis de nata. This traditional diner was a chance to admire the city’s signature blue- and-white azulejo tiles up close and reflect on the artistic flair, both old and new, that brings Lisbon to life.
DESIGNER CRUISING That creativity was reflected back on board Celebrity Apex, the Edge Class ship based in Southampton this summer and returning from May to October 2026. With designer Kelly Hoppen at the helm of its interiors, the aesthetic is light and modern without verging on bland, from the curved lines of the Rooftop Garden to the bright Italian-inspired Grand Plaza atrium. The three-deck-high Eden bar and restaurant is the star of the interior design show, blending mid-century modern furniture and retro 70s chic with touches designed for the Instagram age. It took several visits to discover all of its nooks and crannies, with sectioned-off spaces offering privacy even in a sizeable venue. The moveable Magic Carpet platform – which doubles as a bar, restaurant and extension to the pool deck – might be more functional than aesthetic, but that didn’t stop it from becoming a favourite spot on
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