AISNE


insights into events such as the famously doomed Nivelle Offensive and the Second Batle of the Aisne in April-May 1917. This failed atack on German lines had a huge effect on French army morale and led to mutiny. To appreciate the courage and sacrifice of American fighters, head to the Aisne-Marne US Cemetery next to Belleau Wood, site of heavy losses in June 1918 (there are 2,289 graves here, though many more died). Look out for the tomb of Weedon E. Osborne of the US Navy, a Medal of Honour recipient. He was killed trying to rescue his captain from an under-fire field, waist-deep


Eat and sleep...


banks of the Sambre-Oise canal in November 1918, just a week before the war ended. An hour from Saint-Quentin is the Caverne du Dragon, an underground quarry that served as a barracks (for both French and German soldiers). It sits on a limestone ridge on the frontline sector known as the 40km stretch of the Chemin des Dames, a key Western Front strategic stronghold on the route to Paris, and the ridge where trench warfare began in September 1914 aſter the first Batle of the Marne. The British Expeditionary Force


took part in the follow-up offensive, the First Batle of Aisne, soon aſter (September 12-15) – a batle which ultimately ended in stalemate. Today, poppies fluter serenely


in the breeze as you approach the brand new visitors' centre, from where guided tours take you deep into the cave network to reveal the former field hospitals, command posts and even a chapel. A guided visit of the area is also recommended – notably for its


in wheat, during the advance on the village of Bouresches. Also unmissable for US visitors


is the new Interpretation Centre at Côte 204, near Château-Thierry. This small museum charts America’s involvement in the war. Finally, the Château de Blérancourt is a must-visit. It houses the Museum of Franco-American Cooperation and served as the headquarters of the American Commitee for Devastated France, founded by Anne Morgan (daughter of financier JP Morgan), who helped rebuild the Aisne département post-war. www.jaimelaisne.com


Treat yourself to a luxurious stay, including a spa, at the splendid Château de Fère


WHERE TO STAY IN AISNE Hôtel du Golf de L’Ailete on the Chemin des Dames provides an elegant lakeside stay with very well- appointed rooms and an excellent restaurant, L’Albatros. www.ailete.fr For a sumptuous five-star stay,


head to Château de Fère. It features 29 rooms and suites of the highest comfort, a spa and gastronomic restaurant. The service is faultless. www.chateaudefere.com


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WHERE TO EAT IN AISNE In Laon, the cosy and welcoming L’Estaminet Saint-Jean serves up daily specials and local treats such as goyère au maroilles, a quiche-like baked flan. estaminetsaintjean.com Grab a great-value lunch at


the Hôtel Île-de-France in the town of Château-Thierry – very handy for a visit to the Belleau Wood site and cemetery. hotel-iledefrance.com


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