PAS-DE-CALAIS


An artful outlook at Pas-de-Calais


Head north to the uppermost fringes of the French Western Front (about 90 minutes by car; alternatively, if you are arriving via Calais it’s just an hour away) and you come to Béthune in the Pas- de-Calais département. It became something of a British town during the war due to a steady flow of Commonwealth soldiers passing through on leave and the regiments quartered there – you can follow the British Remembrance Trail around town to trace their story. La Grand'Place was largely


destroyed in the German offensive of 1918. Thankfully, its 14th-century belfry survived and to this day still dominates the square, which was rebuilt in the 1920s and is now home to some stunning examples of Art Deco style. There is a regional celebration of all things Art Deco every spring. Foodies should make a beeline for the La Prairie épicerie to marvel at its array of more than 200 cheeses. About half an hour from Béthune is Lens, firmly on the cultural map thanks to the art and history


behemoth Louvre-Lens that opened its doors in 2012 as part of a move to improve access to significant artworks outside Paris. The Louvre Paris lends it an


evolving display of 200 exceptional items in the Galerie du Temps, masterpieces from 3,500 BC to the mid-19th century which can be fully appreciated using the top-notch audiovisual guides in English. Major temporary exhibitions fill one of the other wings. The illuminated glass museum


was built on the site of a former mine and while the industry is long gone, it still features heavily in the town’s identity. In fact, the local football stadium was named aſter Félix Bollaert, a director of Compagnie des Mines de Lens. You can also visit the highest mining slag heaps in Europe, and climb one for a sublime view if you have the energy! Twenty minutes from Lens is


atractive Arras, whose landmark main squares, La Grand’Place and La Place des Héros, also called La Petite Place, are things of big-scale


13


From top: The Louvre-Lens has put Lens firmly on the cultural map; one of the department's most iconic Remembrance memorials, Vimy Ridge, honours Canadian soldiers


IMAGES © LOUVRE-LENS; RÉMI VIMONT


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17