PAS-DE CALAIS
Clockwise from left: Take a descent into the Wellington Quarry in Arras, home to Kiwi soldiers during the Great War; a detail from the beautiful Ring of Remembrance, Notre-Dame de Lorette; the lively Place des Héros in Arras is perfect for lunch en terrasse; Béthune boasts eclectic buildings styles and has a British Remembrance trail to follow; Notre-Dame de Lorette is the world's largest French military cemetery
and serves as a beautiful homage – via engraved names – of 579,606 troops from all sides who perished in northern France. On the road to Arras, look out for
the biggest German war cemetery in France at Neuville-Saint-Vaast, and note the black crosses and how the trees and bushes are deliberately leſt wild in line with German tradition. Arras was the only town in France
to occupy a frontline position for the entire duration of the Great War. Stop at the remarkable Wellington Quarry, a museum that also serves as a memorial to those who died in the Batle of Arras. Here visitors are invited to don
hard hats and descend in a liſt for a tour of the quarry, named Wellington by the New Zealand sappers who dug it. It's a unique opportunity to experience life in the quarry through the eyes of those who sheltered in it before bravely entering the batlefield on April 9, 1917. Outside is the Memorial Wall where, every year, a Dawn Ceremony is held at 6.30am, timed to coincide with the start of the batle. It serves as an opportune end point to a grand tour of France’s Western Front.
www.visit-pas-de-calais.com
Eat and sleep...
The Hôtel Louvre-Lens provides culture vultures with a sumptuous stay right next to the museum
WHERE TO STAY IN PAS-DE-CALAIS Near Béthune in Saint-Venant, the Belle-Époque Manoir de la Peylouse is an extraordinarily stylish B&B with a remarkable history and literary past. Your charming host is Didier.
www.lapeylouse.fr In Lens, the splendid Hôtel
Louvre-Lens opened in December 2018 in a row of former miners' houses next to the museum. It is modern, chic and comfortable with an excellent restaurant.
www.hotel-louvre-lens.com In Arras, the high-quality Mercure Arras Centre Gare is a short walk
15
from the main squares and opposite the train station.
www.accorhotels.com
WHERE TO EAT IN PAS-DE-CALAIS Within walking distance of the Memorial 14-18 museum is the characterful estaminet, A l'potée d’Léandre, serving up local classics like carbonnade with pain d’épices at reasonable prices.
www.alpotee.fr In Arras, La Cave des Saveurs
serves simple, well-cooked French classics in a typical cellar on the main square.
www.lacavedessaveurs.fr
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