EYEBROW


and see a 155mm gun turret, barracks, historical films, photographs and use detailed multimedia guides. Over 600 Germans are buried here. Finally, witness the sacrifice of


French communities during the war at one of nine ‘destroyed villages’. Places such as Beaumont-


en-Verdunois, Fleury-devant- Douaumont and Haumont-près- Samogneux were obliterated by shelling and lost forever. Plaques and memorial chapels


Eat and sleep...


From top: American troops are commemorated at the moving and immaculately-maintained Montsec Memorial; a detail from the superb Ligier Richier sculpture inside the Saint-Étienne church in Saint-Mihiel


an all-round perspective, visit a clutch of four sites locally. First, the brilliantly-conceived Verdun Memorial museum offers a concise historical background to the war; a replica (noises and all) of the 1916 batlefield; and everyday objects used by soldiers such as mess tins and cigarete packets. As big-ticket museums go, it is exceptional. Next is Douaumont, where an


epic-scale ossuary shelters the remains of 130,000 unknown French and German soldiers. The 137m-long cloister has 42 interior alcoves, while the climbable tower is 46m high. The 20 minute film, The Heroism of Soldiers in Verdun, is captivating. The mighty Fort de Douaumont


was captured four days into the Batle of Verdun by the Germans, who used it to house troops before it was recaptured in October 1916. You can wander the cold, damp corridors


pay tribute to these tragic ‘ghost villages’. If visiting the area in summer, try to catch Des Flammes à la lumière. This full- cast light and sound spectacular has over 300 actors and is run by the Connaissance de la Meuse Association. The narrative follows life from the trenches to post- war and its themes of hope and reconciliation chime nicely with modern day Verdun. Translation headsets are available. www.tourisme-meuse.com


Enjoy a pampered stay at the stunning Château des Monthairons


WHERE TO STAY IN MEUSE In Bar-le-Duc, stay at the chambre d’hôtes Au Lévrier d’Argent, in the Renaissance upper town, for a warm welcome, charming courtyard and homemade jam on the breakfast table. aulevrierdargent.fr Château des Monthairons is a


gorgeous 19th-century castle on the Meuse river, with a spa and superb restaurant – a place to treat yourself. chateaudesmonthairons.fr In Verdun, Maison Mirabeau


is a lovely guesthouse with funky décor and table-d’hôtes cooking. maisonmirabeau.com


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WHERE TO EAT IN MEUSE In the heart of Saint-Mihiel, Boulangerie Félix Mageot is a lively pâtisserie serving excellent sandwiches and homemade burgers – ideal for a quick lunch in between site visits. +33 (0)3 29 89 01 44 Grill de la Tour, 15 rue du Baile


in Bar-le-Duc serves, as its name suggest, fire-cooked meats and local specialities. +33 (0)3 29 76 14 08 In Verdun, Chez Mamie serves simple local cuisine in a homely atmosphere with checked tablecloths. Be sure to book ahead. 52 Avenue de la 42ème Division; +33 (0)3 29 86 45 50


IMAGES © C. RIGOLOT; MICHEL PETIT; CHAMPAGNE METEYER


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