MEUSE The magic of Meuse


As a starting point, the town of Bar-le-Duc is hard to beat. Providing a majestic step back to the 16th century, this quaint, quiet and easy- on-the-eye former capital of the Duchy of Bar has some of the most beautifully preserved Renaissance architecture in France. In its upper town, look up at the pediments and gargoyles peering down onto the rue des Ducs de Bar, then head to the stunning place Saint-Pierre to admire the Gothic style and Renaissance details of Saint-Étienne church. Inside, spot two major sculptural works by Ligier Richier – Lorraine’s greatest Renaissance artist – one of which is Transi de René de Chalon, a striking skeletal representation of a tormented soul dating from 1547. The juicy, yellow mirabelle plum


is an iconic fruit in Meuse and you can find it in umpteen guises – in desserts, jam, liqueur... Another fruity delight to sample in Bar-le- Duc is the luxurious confiture de groseilles, made lovingly by hand (the redcurrant seeds are removed using a goose feather!). This ‘fruit caviar’, favoured by Alfred Hitchcock himself, can be used on


toast or to accompany foie gras. En route from Bar-le-Duc to


Saint-Mihiel (about 35km), make a stop at Vent des Forêts, an outdoor contemporary art hub in the forest with trails of varying lengths. It is perfect for those with an appetite for combining a walk with wide- eyed wonder. Once in Saint-Mihiel, enjoy more


spectacular Ligier Richier works, including The Entombment, a set of 13 characters cut in limestone blocks in Saint-Étienne church. Elsewhere, don’t miss the splendid


4


former courthouse that now houses exhibitions, or the amazing Benedictine library upstairs in the former Abbey. Of its 8,780 volumes, 74 are manuscripts dating from the ninth to the 16th centuries. The town is also a handy base for


outdoors pursuits – kayak along the Meuse river from here or at nearby Lake Madine, or ride a hired bike along the new EuroVelo 19 route. If you have a flat, the tourist office can help – they have an ‘accueil cycliste’ service and will pump up your tyres for free!


IMAGES © MICHEL PETIT; GUILLAUME RAMON; JAN VETTER, FOTOWORX.DE; GIL GIUGLIO


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17