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SEPTEMBER 2019 • COUNTRY LIFE IN BC


Weighing in on the battle of the burgers When you’re talking sustainability, beef really is best


Everyone seems to be


buzzed about eating plant- based meat that they claim is good for the environment, fights climate change and is healthier. Really?


Viewpoint by MARGARET EVANS


Restaurant and grocery chains are jumping on the bandwagon. A&W has had some awesome success with the promotion of Beyond Meat burgers. Tim Horton’s is all a-flutter with its plant- based sausage, and grocery stores are pushing Beyond Meat packages alongside traditional meat cuts. Is this just another food fad


or are we in for a profound shift in how people get their protein? And is this something cattle ranchers need to be worried about? Traditional beef burgers


have just one ingredient. Meat. However, it takes some 20 ingredients for Beyond Meat to make a burger knock- off, starting with ground-up yellow pea protein isolate, water, refined coconut oil and expeller-pressed canola oil. Beet juice is added to give the product the characteristic pink of traditional meat, or a ‘bleed’ effect. Given projected demands,


there’s no doubt that pulse farmers are ordering up greater seed stocks for next year’s planting. Even the feds have jumped in on this. Over the next four years, Canada will invest $153 million in plant protein research and development through Protein Industries Canada (PIC) to spearhead innovation in plant protein food development. Canada is no slouch when it comes to pea production, accounting for 30% of global production. The pea craze is driving serious money to the prairies. Roquette Freres, the French plant-based ingredient manufacturer, has invested over $400 million building a pea processing plant in


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Portage la Prairie, Manitoba, to process yellow peas into powdered fibres, protein and starch. Burcon NutraScience Corporation plans to open a processing facility in Winnipeg in mid-2020 producing pea and canola protein. According to PIC,


Western Canada is already pegged as a major agricultural player with over 28 million hectares of


arable land that accounts for over 85% of Canada’s production base. The global plant-based protein market sits at US$8 billion and is expected to reach nearly US$15 billion by 2023. Earlier this year, the newly


minted Canada’s Food Guide urged people to eat more plant-based foods. And picking up the mantra of the UN Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report released August 8, which recommended a change in food production patterns and a reduction in meat consumption, consumers are on a quest for the next great protein thing that fixes both our health and the planet’s climate woes at the same time. But people forget, or don’t


realize, that well-managed cattle that are rotationally grazing on open range or managed on small-scale farms operating on the principles of regenerative agriculture are already doing their part to capture carbon and store it in the ground, regenerate topsoil, increase biodiversity


and protect the water cycle all with the purpose of increasing resilience to climate change. As large grazers, cattle’s


grazing habits keep plant life healthy so that they can naturally sequester carbon in the soil. With a rich grassland biodiversity, cattle contribute to a viable habitat for over 1,000 plant, animal and insect species. They are not simply consumers of grass and emitters of gases. Range cattle are part of the whole ecological system. In fact, in Europe and the UK, cattle, horses and other large grazers are used in conservation grazing programs to restore damaged habitats. A University of California,


Davis study found that, in fact, grasslands are a more reliable carbon sink than forests since the carbon is stored in the roots beneath the surface whereas forests store it mostly in the leaves and the woody biomass. Grasslands, therefore, are less impacted than forests in the face of drought and wildfire since the carbon is fixed underground. The research has prompted


climate-smart options for ranchers and farmers. Promoting healthy soil with effective land use and livestock management strategies not only provides a rich base for all agricultural uses but pulls carbon out of the atmosphere. According to the university’s science and climate website, rangelands can potentially sequester the carbon emitted from 70 million cars driven for a year.


There are so many ways that raising cattle sustainably can move the needle on climate change.


But, some argue, cattle


produce methane. Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada is all over this one, given 40% of agricultural emissions come directly from methane with 90% from cattle and sheep as a result of feed digestion. Major research and feeding trials have been ongoing to develop diets that can lower methane losses from the animals.


Recent research from the


University of Adelaide, Australia has shown that it is possible to selectively breed for low-methane cattle depending on the genetics of the microbes in the rumen. Bringing genetics into play can up the game and, going forward, selective breeding may produce cows with a lower carbon footprint. Plant-based meat


promoters are pushing the health benefit button but on the real vs knock-off meat scale, you can’t outscore the original. Red meat has been part of our diet throughout our evolution. It provides a rich source of protein and an abundance of essential vitamins and minerals, especially iron and zinc, as well as valuable antioxidant compounds. Animal protein is high quality and contains all nine essential amino acids needed for growth and body maintenance. With meat one of the most complete sources of protein, it is the go-to food for consumption after surgery and during recovery from burns since it aids in building and maintaining muscle mass. Plant-based foods may be


an interesting occasional meal, but they are no substitute for real meat. Margaret Evans is a regular


contributor to Country Life in BC and she enjoys a good steak.


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